Auto Repair

Replaced the battery in my 2004 Mazda RX-8, seems to have a 7 second delay like it wants to start before it actually fires.. I've changed the coil, plugs, battery, checked the alternator, fuel pressure.. Coolant, everything is good. Would me upgrading my coil(s) do anything. Don't think it's the ignition switch or the fuel pump, both about 6 months old. I'm stuck

Replaced the battery in my 2004 Mazda RX-7 , seems to have a 7 second delay like it wants to start before it actually fires.. I've changed the coil, plugs, battery, checked the alternator, fuel pressure.. Coolant, everything is good. Would me upgrading my coil(s) do anything. Don't think it's the ignition switch or the fuel pump, both about 6 months old. I'm stuck

several threads asking about making molds for casting the first time, here is a good article, written by Adam Savage (of Mythbusters), with several good tricks and tips here's another tip, given to me by a friend in the SFX industry: for non-toxic clean up of RTV silicons, use a citrus based cleaner, or better distilled citrus like Lemonene! ;) http://blog.makezine.com/projects/ma...er-moldmaking/ .

Hi, my latest project. Fujimi's Mclaren MP4-12C GT3. The bodycolor was mixed, ​​using images from the Internet by myself, with tamiya TS14 + TS44 + raybrig blue. Gemballa decals and PE-Parts = Studio 27 CF Decals = Scaleproduction Wheels = HobbyDesign Regards Peer

Currently my TC has working AC but in my past I have had AC systems go bad and most of the time I had no money and did not want to fix an expensive system on a 12 year old car, so I would unbolt the belt, etc. The newer cars use a single piece serpentine belt which creates some limits on this compared to the older V-8's with the separate belts for each component. It is my understanding that the AC compressor uses an internal bearing that activates when using the AC, and the compressor clutch is a separate external unit that rotates when the engine is running and not using the AC, or at least most of the time, when cycling on and off. The nice thing with the Ford 4.6 is you could remove the AC compressor and use a shorter belt, or put on a Dorman pulley, but I am wondering if in a worse case scenario should the compressor bearing go, could a person just replace the AC external clutch bearing periodically as it goes bad and just drive and drive, not use the AC but roll down the windows? Thanks.

I'm looking at new Altimas,what can you tell me or send me where I can find real owners views, thanks

Hello Everyone, I have spent app 6 months trying to figure out the issue with my truck,I have spent hours searching. 1995 Chevy K1500, Extended Cab, 350 with TBI, 4L60E trans,234,000 miles, standard bed, I have owned this truck since new, I have always changed the oil every 3000 and run Mobil One oil, the only thing till now that has been replaced under the hood before was: 1 Water Pump 1 Raditator 3 Sets of OEM original plugs 3 Sets of OEM wires 3 Dist caps and rotor 1 starter 3 Throttle Position Sensors That's It!! Transmission was replaced app. 70k ago with a new GM crate unit, system was not just flushed, I replaced all lines, coolers, everything there was. Only other repair was to replace the speed sensor on the transfer case app. 50k ago. Only other service has been brakes, rotors, etc. This truck has never even been in the dirt. The only towing has been my 19 foot Skeeter Bass boat(reason for the tranny replacement) When this problem raised it's ugly head, it did it in just 2or 3 miles. Now, items that I have replaced trying to correct: NEW GM Complete Dist Unit New Plugs, wires. New OEM bolt on GM Cat. converter New OEM O2 Sensor New right hand exhust manifold (saw a hair line crack whiledoing plugs) New MAP Sensor New Thermostat(just for the heck of it) have had no issuesat all with engine temps at all New Coil New AC Delco Vacuum Valve New Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid All of these items have less than 10 miles on them. 3 differentGM dealerships, 4 other lifelong mechs and a few others along the way. The truck starts like it did the first day, just tap the switch and she roars to life in a instant, no missing on any cyls, no backfire,no sputtering, baby smooth idle always, oil pressure hangs around 50-60 psi atall times, lowest you might see is 45. Water temp just were it should be rather solid on 210. You can start it upand take off, also engine hot or cold has no bearing at all. If you pull out on the hwy and apply the gas VERY lightlyand allow the truck to build up its speed very slow you can go down the interstate with cruiseon at 80-90 and never know there is a problem. Now, if you go WOTwhen you are running 55, in O/D, tach at app 1500 rpm, the tach jumps up to3400-3500 RPM in a instant, like a rocket, no missing, sputtering nothing atall, but the truck speedo stays on 55 and you go no faster, you can stay at WOT(Wide Open Throttle) for 5 10 seconds and the tach stays wound out, but no go. Same action if you go from a dead stop taking off and go WOT, tach goes to above and speed may be 20-30MPH and no increase. Back of the pedal and let her get up to speed slowly and it will twist the speedo till the limiter cuts her off. I had her on the last mile or so the the above 10 and she hit 100 and running as smooth as a babys bottom. The tranny never slips, whines, nothing at all to notice. I also change my tranny fluid and filter every 50,000 like clock work. Also pulled the TBI unit off of my 1995 Suburban, TBI has same numbers stamped on it has my truck, exact same running gear, 90k on it, no change in my truck at all, Put the TBI off my truck on the Suburban and it ran justlike it did with its TBI installed, so no problem there. Thanks in advance forany and all help. Beaten, Dale

My tank is out and I only have to remove the retainer ring and I'll be needing my replacement pump or assembly. I've been searching to find if there is any difference between what is available out there and it seems like there is a tremendous difference between brands. However, a lot of the threads I found are over 5 years old. Since it is not rocket science to make a durable pump, by now there may be cheap pumps that are fairly robust. The Cheap Leader is an AutoBest pump for $23. Almost everyone complains about AirTex. Almost everyone says AC Delco/Delphi is the best. I wonder if Denso might also be a "best?" Would a Motorcraft be the same as the OE pump from Ford Parts Department? Thanks Tom

Tried to access their website earlier today and it just did'nt work. http://www.hobbydesign.com.cn No message that they're reconstucting or anything. I'd hate to see them gone as the quality of their stuff really was improving. If you know anything, please share. Regards! Emil

Hey all, as my signature says I'm mechanically incompetent. Anything I've ever been able to accomplish was because I lucked out and found a video on Youtube that took me step by step through it so please be gentle with what may be a dumb question I'm going to ask. Basically I'm having Alternator problems on my 2000 Suzuki Esteem and being unemployed I can't afford to get my car fixed right now so I'm just charging the battery with my friend's car battery charger and then using it for the basic necessities like going for groceries and such. But my car is one of the ones with automatic headlights that turn on the moment I start the car, I can't turn them off. So I was wondering if I remove the fuses for the headlights (and obviously only drive during the day) will that disable them and not be dangerous to my car's electrical system? Or, in lieu thereof if anyone can suggest a better solution (keeping in mind I'm too poor to do the right thing and have it fixed, lol) that'd be appreciated. Thanks for your time.