Auto Repair

Have an 02 Envoy SLE 4x4. I changed both front hubs and outer tie rod ends as I had play up and down and side to side. Passenger side is not tight without play. Drivers side still has play up and down. The truck vibrates like crazy when braking. Any ideas what other part may need to be changed? It almost feels like the wheel is going to come off. Thanks,

Hello, My first post here. I did a search on my 2003 Town & Country's symptoms, but wasn't able to find anybody who reported a similar problem. When we turn the wheel of the van sharply in either direction, it produces a distinct clunk from the rear. This isn't the AWD engagement symptom I've read about - it seems to be strictly connected to a sudden change of direction, and the noise is definitely coming from the rear. I can also get the noise to happen when going over a large bump, such as a speed bump, but a moderately sharp (so nothing you wouldn't do in normal driving) flick of the wheel produces the noise very easily and consistently. I doubt it's the axles, because the way we drive this van, the AWD is actually seldom engaged, so the axles have seen very little wear. Could it be the rubber bushings that support the leaf springs? It's such a simple rear suspension design that there isn't a whole lot to go wrong/replace, but I don't want to start throwing parts at it without at least a stab at a diagnosis. The van has 123,000 miles, and has been doing this for a long time, and it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Otherwise, the van has been amazingly trouble-free. Thanks.

I believe my fuel sender could be going bad but not sure. It kicked out the code(can't remember the code #) where one of the options was fuel sender sending out a high voltage. But this code was set at least 3 years ago and the thing is still running. It only recently bogged while going uphill-only happened the one time- so maybe that was caused by something else. Also, there is a strange noise now emanating from under the hood that almost sounds like a vacuum leak- like air being sucked thru a straw. The sound for some odd reason goes away after driving for about 5 minutes. Anyone have similar problems with there Rodeo? Could the sound I mentioned be associated with a bad fuel sending unit?

I have a '99 Rodeo 2.2L, 2wd with 60k. Time for new plugs and wires. Does anyone have a engine diagram? I havent found the Distributor Cap.. AND... my Haynes Repair Manual mentions coil packs... when I went to AutoZone for Spark Plug wires, they didnt say anything about coil packs. Educate me folks~! I really dont want to have to PAY someone to do this job. :jerking:

Hello Everyone, So here's the thing... I did an oil change on my car that uses a "crush" washer. It looks like a aluminum washer on the oil drain plug. I used a new crush washer from dealership. I did the oil change put the drain plug and new crush washer back in with a fair amount of force, like the germans says, "goodentight". And then after running the car I noticed drips on the garage floor... It was coming from between the plug and washer. I then looked up the technical reference of torque and it was saying the drain plug should be 24-32 ftlbs... I tightened alittle more not 20 lbs somewhere below (I attempted to move the bolt with the torque wrench but then got concerned about striping it out, so I didn't get the click that the wrench was setup to go to 20 ftlbs)... It seems to have slowed the leak-- very little comes out now just enough to see it coming off the crush washer not enough to put on garage floor. My question, do people really need or have to torque the oil drain plug? I have owned two cars in the past and never did such a thing to them (although they didn't use crush washers). The other concern that I have is stripping out the hole in the oil pan -- not something I want to go through. Am I safe using a torque wrench (not to strip the oil pan out)? Could I have a defective crush washer(I really don't think so but anything possible I guess) I guess really my options are try to torque some more or drain oil again and put new washer on? Or another option is to replace the drain plug? Anybody else have this issue before?

99 Intrigue 3.5, 212,000 with car off dash lights, gauges stay on, occasional tail and DTR lights on, air bag light flashes on dash and warning light sounds. Things may sometimes go off or change while push on brake pedal. Replaced ignition switch, but things are pretty much the same. Had codes read - Code U1016 Loss of Power Control Module. End result is overnight the battery is run down. I did not do a relearn when replaced ignition switch. Car starts and runs fine. Any ideas on what my problems is? Also I had engine replaced with used engine about 6 months ago due to knock of death. No problems after engine replacment, the battery run down problem started about two weeks ago. One more thing, Thanks littlehove for the ignition switch instructions

Recently I've built a deluxe version of thish Fujimi kit with included PE-parts. Nice fitting and overall quality of this kit gave me several joyful hours of modelling ? recommend it to guys who haven't purchased it yet. The color is Official Giallo Triplo Strato by PPG (although I've painted it to thick so the effect is difficult to catch) & 2K clearcoat. Also I've cut out the trunk-lid but was enable to make it movable on completed model. Comments & Critics are welcome! [more]

Hi Guys Here just another LeMans 24h model built by me 2years ago. The kit is from Renaissance and it is quite good! The WIP you can see here http://www.modelers-network.com/beri...ugeot-908.html Just download the .pdf on the end of the site. As special I opend the air vents Best regards Sascha

This is my first this year finished model. It has some little mistakes but in general I am very pleased with the finall result. The biggest mistakes are obviously the side windows I had some problems with fitting them in so there are glue residues on them. Model fits good togheter my biggest concerne were the doors but they fit perfectly on the hinges. C&C welcome.

Replacing the Car battery is easy, but doing so without impacting on a modern car is not. Many data can be lose, not only the GPS stereo etc but also in some cases, the electronic control unit can lose data, keys settings, etc. sometimes all parameters. One solution is to connect a small lipo battery type three-element, the load is 12.4 v, to the going terminals themselves, before replacing it, with this system, the electrical installation does not lose the voltage at any time so that the change battery is no problem as seen in the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkYSSeLsf0s