Auto Repair

hi i have a 2000 chrysler neon auto and the trans blew apart on it so i took the one out of our parts car which has a good trans but when i get it bolted up the motor wont turn over by hand to bolt up the torque converter, ive pulled it all apart 3 or 4 times and cant see anything binding up so im not sure what is wrong if you got any ideas id love to hear them, and also once i loosen the trans off the motor will turn by hand then

Im at a loss...Im not sure what is going on..Please allow me to lay out what happened in detail.... My A/C Compressor clutch froze so I replaced the A/C unit (broke the clutch bold so just replaced the whole unit)...I put everything back together and all was good in the world.. One day while going down the road I heard something weird but didnt think much of it but then noticed my water temp going up... I stopped and looked under the hood and found that the tention pully had fallen off..im guessing I over looked tightening it down properly...my fault.. Needing to get it off the road since I was on a busy Highway I drove it less than a half a mile...during that short amount of drive I started having more proplems my engine light came on the IMA light came and the IMA batterys started to die at a rapid pace...It almost appeared or seemed that the motor was running solely on the electric motor... once I got it to a resonable safe area I stopped and called for a tow.. The car wont start and I have no battery power for the electric motor.. I am at a loss as to what has happened what is wrong...am I looking at a motor replacement or is it something like a simple timing issue? I am at a loss and any advise will be helpful....so please anybody help... Honda dealer wont even look at it with out charging me $250.

I am looking for one for a 1998 Saturn SL-1, nothing in my Haynes manual says anything about Mufflers. The old one broke and I am using a coat hangar. Where is a good place to look and any ID info I need for the part? Thanks for any assistance.

Hi Everyone, I have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM. Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first. Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe? My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like total loss of steering control? Has anyone had this happen to them? Thanks in advance.

I have a 2003 Ford Mustang 3.8L/V6. Whenever I put the key into the ignition, the overhead light inside the car stays on after I turn the ignition on and while I'm driving. I want to know if there is something wrong with one of my sensors and if there is, what should do? take it to a shop or try to fix it manually?

Hello, with this the porsche 934 from the Almeras team as it drove LeMans in 1980, the car had a modified rear turbo wing and modified front light lenses. The car didn't finish the race due to an accident. Base for this car is the HELLER Porsche 934RSR, with modified wheels from FUJIMI, the rear spoiler comes from the Flatnose turbo, the front lights also from a Fujimi Turbo Porsche. I also ingraved the wheel extentions, and made some holes to replicate the rivets. Also added some strips to replicate the roof line. ( rain gitter ) Thanks for looking, Regards, Joka-1 Attached Images IMG_5372.JPG (189.7 KB) IMG_5373.JPG (178.6 KB) IMG_5375.JPG (206.4 KB) IMG_5376.JPG (219.5 KB) IMG_5377.JPG (177.9 KB)

The other day I was driving and all power to the vehicle suddenly went out. I had to cruise into a parking lot. I have had the alternator tested to be good at Auto Zone and the battery tests just fine with the multimeter. When I checked the fuses under the hood I saw that the 40A Ign A fuse blew. I replaced it with another 40 and tried starting the vehicle and it blew again. I did some testing with a test light by placing the metal clamp of the tester light on the negative connector and than poking the negative terminal with the needle of the tester light, the bulb would light up even though the car was off meaning there is a short somewhere. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjXt7_gusgM So I kept that in place and took out fuses until the light went off to find out what circuit the short would be on. It ended up being the 50A Batt fuse. This is when I went up to Auto Zone to have the alternator tested as some guy had a similar problem and it ended up being a bad alternator. The techs there said maybe it is a short in the ignition switch or something. I have no idea how the 40A Ign A fuse could blow but yet the short is in the 50A Batt fuse. Any ideas and help would be appreciated in getting this fixed. Thank you.

These guys at www.carmenitafordparts.com were pretty cool - they sent me some 10% coupon the other day for all online orders only and had told me to share with people (I had bought some stuff on their site a few months ago). They had the part in stock unlike other sites and their prices are pretty decent too. The code is: fordautom30 and the coupon ends May 31st.

I have varified all but two the vacuum hose locations. the vacuum diagram is a little vague on the idle up valve hose connection at the trottle body and it doesn't show the air injection hose (california version) connection at all at the throttle body can someone clear this up for me?

I?m on a mailing list for parts site called www.carmenitafordparts.com and they emailed me a coupon. The code is fordautom30 and it?s for 10% off parts and accessories. It lasts until May 31st and it's for online orders not phone orders. Hope someone can use this!