Auto Repair

Hello all. I have a '79 Sunbird with a 305 V8 with electricity starter (Not Points). The issue I am having is when it takes a hill the car sputters, surges, sputters and sometime dies. I can keep the accelerator to the floor and it doesn't seem it help. So far I have check the Transmission, vacuum lines and distributor cap and it's still losing power. Does anyone have any ideas on what maybe causing it to just want to die?

I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 4.7L SLT that I would like to figure out how to get the dash apart so I can wire my phone dock under the dash so that I don't have that stupid wire dangling around my radio and fan knobs. I haven't been able to find any videos or detailed descriptions on how to get it off.

I have an '05 FEH that has been working fine. But now with warmer weather (not hot by any means, high today was only around 70) I am being unable to go EV if I have been (city) driving for any length of time and have warmed up the HV battery. Depending which Scangauge xgauge I use (BTM or Tav), when I get above about 88-89 degrees I can't go EV. And I'm not talking much hotter than that. Today it only reach a ax of like 91.6 and I never got into EV for the half hour after that while on the road before getting home. FYI, I have a nice clean HV battery duct filter in place. My questions are: - Should the HV battery be warming up that much on a 70 degree day in city driving with normal amounts of EV/non-EV cycling? - At what HV battery temp should I expect it to not go EV? (I'm seeing this happens, as I said, at around 88-89 degrees) - At what temp will active (A/C) battery cooling take place? - How long should it take to cool it back down so it will go EV again? With what I'm seeing, I wonder how anyone in the southern states ever gets any EV use during the summer.

'99 5.7L extended cab 4x4. What kind of gas mileage is realistic for this truck? Guy told me he'd gotten 23mpg on the highway, that sounds unrealistic to me

Selling 2007 Toyota Camery - V6 HYBIRD half gas half electric When you first start the car you cant even tell shes only only by the "Ready" light on the dash till you start moving then the engine will turn on automatically - Battery's were checked by Toyota dealer a few months ago and got a good bill of health - I have gotten 40 MPG + great gas saver - only 113,xxx miles - She is loaded too comes with factory navigation, IPod mp3 player hooks ups very user friendly, steering wheel controls heated seats, dual climate controls, sunroof and the list goes on.... Love the car but upgraded to a Mercedes SUV needed the room with growing family. Asking $11,200 FIRM First one here with the cash gets it Cheapest Camry hybrid you find anywhere! Open to trades let me know what you have If you have any questions or would like to come see the car please give me a call or text to 248-747-2196 Attached Thumbnails

Hey everyone, I have been reading the forums for the past several weeks as I've been doing research and I finally pulled the trigger on an 05 FEH last Thursday. Here's a photo: So there's one or two minor problems with the car, one of which is bothering more than the other: The info display underneath the tachometer is barely functioning. It's not completely off, but very very dim. Here is a photo: Is this a common problem? I haven't been able to find anything on it. Thank you for the help!

I have a 2000 ford ranger, and I can't seem to find a replacement for the hydraulic line that goes from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylider. The part number is 7A512. I can find lines for everything up to a 97, but after that, I have trouble finding anything. All the ones I'm able to find are $100 or more, when the older ones are only $50. Can I use an older one? or is the connector a different size? All I really need is the connector at the end. It's worn down and slips right out when I put pressure on the clutch pedal. Is there anywhere I could just get this part?

a honda civic rwd with a f20c engine ( honda s2000) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLTl51qkOUA

Phi Mu Alpha Car, Truck, and Tractor show for music Oct. 12th (oct 26th rain date) Central Baptist Church in Martin TN registration from 9am-noon awards begin at 5pm Pre-registered (online, by phone, or email) $20 paid upon arrival Day-of is $30 to set up a booth its $15 or the donation of a prize and/or trophy -Swap Meet -booths from local businesses -Live Music -Great Food! -Piano Bash [Many Prizes (Cash Prizes and Gift cards) Bring lawn chairs, kick back and relax and enjoy the show. If you play an instrument bring it! all questions should be directed to the website, my email (sigmapsitreasurer@gmail.com) or my phone 7313329635 Proceeds from the first annual Sinfonia Car Show will benefit the Elwood and Carolyn Doss Fund as well as Sigma Psi's financial ability to attend fraternity retreats, attend province workshops, and continuing our presence on UTM's campus. :repost: Attached Images 320753_585865061437763_1110781239_n.jpg (177.7 KB)

i am seeing 2 strut options for the 01-07 town country with 119 wheelbase. the 5135538AA for normal duty and the 5066334AA for touring. and finding out, the limited and touring have the same size spring/bar,etc in front. even the handicap vans have the same strut numbers. this has nivomat rear. looking for the stiffer strut, not the soft comfy feel. more responsive. maybe the rod diameter, or the size of the hole the fluid travels through. please someone help, ive spent 3 days researching and 4 dealers later, nothing. have had different questions all answered differently. I would like to know which one has the least resistence, thanks!!! oh, twin tube struts are not recommended for nivomat rear, the gas matic, larger rod struts are for nivomat....from what i'm told. i cant find gas ones cept through mopar.