Auto Repair

I've just discovered the horn is not working and would like to know if there's a fuse or a relay that powers it. I've checked my repair manual and it gives limited detail on the horn but not what to check or how to service if the horn should become inoperable. I've checked the fuse diagram and didn't see any place for the horn. I don't drive the car much but when I do I'm reminded of the day I learned how important the horn is, especially in this era when drivers are so busy texting and everything else while driving without actually paying attention to driving and other motorist. Sitting behind a driver for about 18-25 sec at a red light after it turns green is not a good thing. It happening back to back is intolerable. Sorry for the rant and thanks for your assistance in advance.

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 extended cab. I locked my keys in the other day and called AAA who arrived promptly. He placed two wooden wedges between the glass and lower outside window seal on the passenger side door. Using a probe with a hook on the end his first pull missed it's intended mark but the second opened the passenger door. I've sense noticed that most attempts to lock or unlock the truck do not work for the driver side but always works for the passenger side. This is true with either the remote and each inside power door lock switch. Is it possible that I need to retrain the power door locks or maybe he damaged something with the probe on the passenger side that affects the driver side?

I finally have the tank out and am wondering if I might break the retaining ring if I use a hammer and brass or wood "chisel" to knock loose instead of the proper ring removal tool? Thanks Tom

Hi, I recently bought a '01 Grand Prix with a 3.1 V6. When I bought it I noticed a longer than usual crank time, about 4-6 seconds, and the guy that I bought it from (a mechanic) told me that he took out the fuel screening from the fuel pump (it was a new pump, he just got "bad gas") and put a one-way valve instead, because of some clogging, and said that that was the problem. I got a fuel screen from a junker since they don't sell it separately and already put it in place, but the problem is still there, a long crank time. I checked the fuel pressure regulator, the test where you take the hose out while running and look for any leaking and nothing happened. I'm assuming it's a fuel problem and not air or spark, but I am really not sure. The problem happens when I leave the car over night or just sitting for a while. Also putting the key in the "on" position and letting it sit there for couple of seconds before starting doesn't cure the problem. Please help me out. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Hi guys. Today, I just received from HLJ de 1/20 rb6 carbon check and radial decals, after open it I realized there is no instructions or something to help me find out how to use them. As you know, they usually indicates the piece number (pattern) where to apply but not in this case. Does somebody know where to find the instructions sheet? I will appreciate your help regards Miguel

Sorry if this was asked, but the search function is not working for me. Has anyone installed coil springs between the rear axle and frame around the bump stops to help their sagging leaf springs?

All new rear suspension components, new track bar, and new shocks and stabilizer bar within the last 30k miles. I did get rear ended about 20k ago, although the body shop reported no frame or suspension damage. But the handling did seem to get worse after that. Alignment is correct, tire wear is even and steering doesn't wander other than what's listed below. Statically the handling is fine. When you get into a dynamic situation there is a drastic difference in the behavior. From cruise when letting off the gas, there is a definite movement to the right. Get back on the gas, and there's a definite movement to the left, enough to change lanes if you let it, sometimes quickly. It's obvious to me that something is shifting in the suspension; to me it feels like the rear is moving, as sometimes when heavy on the gas there will be a squirm in the rear. Wanted to pick the brains of those that might have an idea of what the problem could be with suggestions for possible solutions. Thanks in advance.

Hey I was woundering if I can put a grid charger on my hi hy. I see then on other hybrids but never on a hihy. If I can do it what grid charger can I get? Thanks

THE LONG TAIL!!! http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/new/...9856#more-9856 This is turning out to be a GREAT modeling year!! :grinyes:

Hi All, Looking to get some input on changinf engines in a 2006 Express van. I've got the new used motor in the shop, the next step seems a bit more complicated. Anyone ever done one of these? any tips? The biggest issue I see off the top of my head is that there is almost no room between the top of the intake and the firewall to do any sort of lifting. I've read that lifting the body off the frame first is actually easier. I don't have a full lift but I do have a couple chain hoist points I could do this with if its worth it. I'll start pulling back trim and plastic the next few evenings and will post some pictures as work progresses. Thanks, Doug Attached Images IMG_0215.JPG (235.4 KB)