Auto Repair

hi guys need some help..i have an 01 deville (base) with the air level shocks in the back. i took out originals and replaced with Gabriel Hijackers. my old airline would have worked but the ends were seized/ rusted into old shock so i had to cut them. my question is can i use an aftermarket air shock line to replace them from the pump? also dont even know where pump is located but havent looked yet either lol. or can i use the cut line with 2 new o-rings even if the line doesnt have that flared end nomore?

My 1981 280zx turbo has had the mass air flow sensor , plugs , plug wires , had the fuel injectors cleaned and had the turbo replaced, and when I punch it , it still sputters and pops , sometimes it does it during normal driving also...I can't seem to find a mechanic that can figure it out....I would appreciate any fresh ideas ..I really enjoy this car , but this tends to take the fun out of driving it...thanks

Hello all. I have a question. I have a 99 ford escot with a 2.0 SOHC engine and for the last week or so it was making a tapping noise but it was intermittent. Today, I revved the motor up slightly and it started making this horrible clanking noise and then it stalled out. I tried starting it up and when it did start to run, it made the same clanking noise then it shut off. I tried to start it up and it wont even turn over. Its acting like it siezed up but Im not sure if its in the top end or the bottom end. Now I know the CVH engines are notorious for dropping valve seats but Im not sure how to diagnose it if that is what happend. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

OK folks, I need a little help. My daughter's 2004 GT, 3.8L, with stock AM/FM/CD Monsoon radio system seems to have an issue. She gets intermittent noise/humm/static that is audible in the two drivers door and center dash speakers. Noise is of varying degrees of intensity, can be heard in the mentioned speakers with the radio on or off, and usually the noise varies with the engine RPM (whine intensifies as RPM increases, decreases when RPM decreases). Sometimes the noise starts with no provocation, sometimes it starts when you shut the drivers door, sometimes the noise starts when you hit a sharp bump in the road. The noise usually, not always, stops when you shut the car off and re-start it. I've tried to open and shut doors, lock and unlock doors, activate electric windows, cruise control, traction control, turn signals, etc. to see if they affect the radio noise. They don't. Recently though it seems that the noise will stop immediately when you blow the horn. Problem is intermittent enough that I have only tested the horn twice but I'm 2 for 2. I haven't yet taken the radio out or taken the door panel off but think that's within my abilities. Looking for any advice anyone may have with this. I might mention that this problem seemed to start about the same time she started getting traction control/steering assist warnings that were recently solved by the dealer replacing a wheel speed sensor. Probably not connected but seemed coincidental. Dealer speculated that the amp might be going out but that really doesn't seem to make sense to me do to the intermittent and non repeatable nature of the issue.

I went in to this shop because my truck was pulling quite a bit to the right. They did an alignment and afterward I was looking at the before & after specs and they weren't much different...I think they adjusted the toe a little and maybe something else, but for the most part the specs were already acceptable to begin with. They told me that one of the front tires had a little bit of a camber to it but that they didn't like to move the factory [something] because it becomes more of a hassle down the road. Then when I left, I noticed the truck was still pulling to the right, so I went back to the shop and they swapped the front tires...this caused it to pull just slightly to the left. *edit: I ask because if the specs weren't far off to begin with, shouldn't they have told me that an alignment wasn't necessary? I did have a $10 discount coupon, so if I did get ripped, it wasn't as bad lol

I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp G. I need to replace the rear calipers. I cannot find these anywhere. Not even the dealer. Does anyone know where I can get these? Thanks

I have a 1998 Jimmy 4x4 sls. The problem I have is at 2000 rpm the battery light comes on starts dipping bad alt shuts off and it drops from 14.2 to 12.2. After you release the throttle its starts charging again below 1500 rpms. It has done this with a stock alternator and a 190 amp alternator rebuilt alt. Two different batterys two batterys hooked up at once or indivisually. I pulled the duralast battery looking for grounding issues. I found a severed ground off the three factory grounds. I stripped it replised it then the engine warmed up again the same thing. It has one orange wire going to the regulator ared 10 gauge to the battery. Im at a loss what is the next step what would you check next??

Hi, I cannot find specs for Points on my truck. My dad use to set them using a match book cover. Not that talented! Should condenser automatically be changed with points. 352 engine FYI, Thanks

http://www.dpccars.com/car-videos-13...rift-Wagon.htm This was taken during Golden Gate Drift ProAM Round 2 in Stockton 99 on May 19,2013.Forman Performance ended the day with a FIRST PLACE finish.

Never mind the 4 wheel drive floor shifter jumping into neutral again this morning, always good for a scare, I made it to my dentist appointment. Only to come out to find the suburban wouldnt start. Wore two batteries down trying. Diesel shop guy shows up, tests a couple of diesel fuel pressures. Unplugs the PMD, plugs in a loaner and we drive to the shop. At the shop he tests the waste gate solenoid, it's junk for sure. Changes it, unplugs the loaner PMD and plugs the old one back in. It starts, again and again. Now I've replaced probably 10 PMDs over the 17 years I've owned the truck. I replace em at the first burp, stall or engine light. But today they said not only could the waste gate solenoid be burning the PMDs out left and right, but they might have saved this one. Go see how it goes. Really? Hasnt already proved to be going to shit? Am I just asking for another breakdown?