Auto Repair

Hello Everyone, I have spent app 6 months trying to figure out the issue with my truck,I have spent hours searching. 1995 Chevy K1500, Extended Cab, 350 with TBI, 4L60E trans,234,000 miles, standard bed, I have owned this truck since new, I have always changed the oil every 3000 and run Mobil One oil, the only thing till now that has been replaced under the hood before was: 1 Water Pump 1 Raditator 3 Sets of OEM original plugs 3 Sets of OEM wires 3 Dist caps and rotor 1 starter 3 Throttle Position Sensors That's It!! Transmission was replaced app. 70k ago with a new GM crate unit, system was not just flushed, I replaced all lines, coolers, everything there was. Only other repair was to replace the speed sensor on the transfer case app. 50k ago. Only other service has been brakes, rotors, etc. This truck has never even been in the dirt. The only towing has been my 19 foot Skeeter Bass boat(reason for the tranny replacement) When this problem raised it's ugly head, it did it in just 2or 3 miles. Now, items that I have replaced trying to correct: NEW GM Complete Dist Unit New Plugs, wires. New OEM bolt on GM Cat. converter New OEM O2 Sensor New right hand exhust manifold (saw a hair line crack whiledoing plugs) New MAP Sensor New Thermostat(just for the heck of it) have had no issuesat all with engine temps at all New Coil New AC Delco Vacuum Valve New Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid All of these items have less than 10 miles on them. 3 differentGM dealerships, 4 other lifelong mechs and a few others along the way. The truck starts like it did the first day, just tap the switch and she roars to life in a instant, no missing on any cyls, no backfire,no sputtering, baby smooth idle always, oil pressure hangs around 50-60 psi atall times, lowest you might see is 45. Water temp just were it should be rather solid on 210. You can start it upand take off, also engine hot or cold has no bearing at all. If you pull out on the hwy and apply the gas VERY lightlyand allow the truck to build up its speed very slow you can go down the interstate with cruiseon at 80-90 and never know there is a problem. Now, if you go WOTwhen you are running 55, in O/D, tach at app 1500 rpm, the tach jumps up to3400-3500 RPM in a instant, like a rocket, no missing, sputtering nothing atall, but the truck speedo stays on 55 and you go no faster, you can stay at WOT(Wide Open Throttle) for 5 10 seconds and the tach stays wound out, but no go. Same action if you go from a dead stop taking off and go WOT, tach goes to above and speed may be 20-30MPH and no increase. Back of the pedal and let her get up to speed slowly and it will twist the speedo till the limiter cuts her off. I had her on the last mile or so the the above 10 and she hit 100 and running as smooth as a babys bottom. The tranny never slips, whines, nothing at all to notice. I also change my tranny fluid and filter every 50,000 like clock work. Also pulled the TBI unit off of my 1995 Suburban, TBI has same numbers stamped on it has my truck, exact same running gear, 90k on it, no change in my truck at all, Put the TBI off my truck on the Suburban and it ran justlike it did with its TBI installed, so no problem there. Thanks in advance forany and all help. Beaten, Dale

My tank is out and I only have to remove the retainer ring and I'll be needing my replacement pump or assembly. I've been searching to find if there is any difference between what is available out there and it seems like there is a tremendous difference between brands. However, a lot of the threads I found are over 5 years old. Since it is not rocket science to make a durable pump, by now there may be cheap pumps that are fairly robust. The Cheap Leader is an AutoBest pump for $23. Almost everyone complains about AirTex. Almost everyone says AC Delco/Delphi is the best. I wonder if Denso might also be a "best?" Would a Motorcraft be the same as the OE pump from Ford Parts Department? Thanks Tom

Tried to access their website earlier today and it just did'nt work. http://www.hobbydesign.com.cn No message that they're reconstucting or anything. I'd hate to see them gone as the quality of their stuff really was improving. If you know anything, please share. Regards! Emil

Hey all, as my signature says I'm mechanically incompetent. Anything I've ever been able to accomplish was because I lucked out and found a video on Youtube that took me step by step through it so please be gentle with what may be a dumb question I'm going to ask. Basically I'm having Alternator problems on my 2000 Suzuki Esteem and being unemployed I can't afford to get my car fixed right now so I'm just charging the battery with my friend's car battery charger and then using it for the basic necessities like going for groceries and such. But my car is one of the ones with automatic headlights that turn on the moment I start the car, I can't turn them off. So I was wondering if I remove the fuses for the headlights (and obviously only drive during the day) will that disable them and not be dangerous to my car's electrical system? Or, in lieu thereof if anyone can suggest a better solution (keeping in mind I'm too poor to do the right thing and have it fixed, lol) that'd be appreciated. Thanks for your time.

Hello, this model I began in autumn 2010. After the adventures of the damaged decals on the roof model came in the box for a long time. I recently found it and decided to finish. I lowered suspension, changed the wheels for AWC Steel Daytona from Aoshima and added tires from some fujimi set. Painted Gulf blue from Zero Paints and added Gulf racing decals. interior and chassis and some pics stylized HDR technique. I like this type of photos.

Hello, One I finished recently. It's the BMW M1 BASF driven by Hans Georg Burger during the Britisch GP in 1980 where it didn't finish. Base is the ESCI/Revell BMW M1 Porocar, decals are from RaceWorks, wheels are Fujimi with central wheel bolts from ScaleProduction. Thanks for watching, hope you like it. Joka-1 Attached Images IMG_5365.JPG (204.7 KB) IMG_5366.JPG (207.4 KB) IMG_5367.JPG (188.8 KB) IMG_5369.JPG (213.5 KB) IMG_5370.JPG (210.0 KB)

I've just discovered the horn is not working and would like to know if there's a fuse or a relay that powers it. I've checked my repair manual and it gives limited detail on the horn but not what to check or how to service if the horn should become inoperable. I've checked the fuse diagram and didn't see any place for the horn. I don't drive the car much but when I do I'm reminded of the day I learned how important the horn is, especially in this era when drivers are so busy texting and everything else while driving without actually paying attention to driving and other motorist. Sitting behind a driver for about 18-25 sec at a red light after it turns green is not a good thing. It happening back to back is intolerable. Sorry for the rant and thanks for your assistance in advance.

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 extended cab. I locked my keys in the other day and called AAA who arrived promptly. He placed two wooden wedges between the glass and lower outside window seal on the passenger side door. Using a probe with a hook on the end his first pull missed it's intended mark but the second opened the passenger door. I've sense noticed that most attempts to lock or unlock the truck do not work for the driver side but always works for the passenger side. This is true with either the remote and each inside power door lock switch. Is it possible that I need to retrain the power door locks or maybe he damaged something with the probe on the passenger side that affects the driver side?

I finally have the tank out and am wondering if I might break the retaining ring if I use a hammer and brass or wood "chisel" to knock loose instead of the proper ring removal tool? Thanks Tom

Hi, I recently bought a '01 Grand Prix with a 3.1 V6. When I bought it I noticed a longer than usual crank time, about 4-6 seconds, and the guy that I bought it from (a mechanic) told me that he took out the fuel screening from the fuel pump (it was a new pump, he just got "bad gas") and put a one-way valve instead, because of some clogging, and said that that was the problem. I got a fuel screen from a junker since they don't sell it separately and already put it in place, but the problem is still there, a long crank time. I checked the fuel pressure regulator, the test where you take the hose out while running and look for any leaking and nothing happened. I'm assuming it's a fuel problem and not air or spark, but I am really not sure. The problem happens when I leave the car over night or just sitting for a while. Also putting the key in the "on" position and letting it sit there for couple of seconds before starting doesn't cure the problem. Please help me out. Any help is appreciated, thanks.