Cheese

These crisps, made mostly from potato flour but with also many other grains, looked sort of remotely like narrow-rippled potato chips, except with very weird, irregular shapes and some wiggle on the surfaces. ...

Here’s the message Rawsome foods co-founder Aajonus Vonderplanitz sent out to his people on his email list recently in connection with the Hershberger trial. Presumably, this represents his own views on the case, and the issues around it: “Hi, healthy-food lovers, I am in Baraboo, Wisconsin immersed in a real-life satirical trial, droning with irony. The trial is the persecution of our dedicated and brave farmer Vernon Hershberger. This jury trial is about food-safety but the judge ruled that food-safety cannot be discussed in the trial. The charges are about contaminated RAW MILK but the judge ruled that raw milk cannot be discussed in the trial. Governments do not want a true and factual hearing on raw milk in this Hershberger-case because their raw-milk junk-science would not hold to rational jurors minds. Thankfully, we have four very good attorneys representing Vernon that are working diligently for him/us in the midst of outrageous and incoherent courtroom injustices. Of the first 2 days of trial, I estimate that the judge has illogically ruled 65% for the irrational requests of the State and 35% for rational requests of Vernon. Fair trial? We need people here to support Vernon Hershberger, his wife, 10 children and our food freedom. Farmer Vernon is one of the few who have completely disrupted his life to fight with and for our right to grow and have the healthy food of our choice. We need as many supporters as possible in person. You do not have to listen to the boring trial. Come sit on the grass with us in the courtyard but show. If you cannot show, please call a friend who might be able to come Wednesday, Thursday and/or Friday. Every time a government agency is allowed to charge and convict a farmer for growing and distributing healthy food, we come closer to losing our rights to choose healthy food. In favor of corporate agricultural and food-giants, governmental health agencies/departments have been driving family farmers out of business for about 100 years with regulations that are right for mass-production but not for family farms. We have to stop the governmental assaults on our farmers at every opportunity now. We must make opportunities wherever we can. This is one now. LOCATION: Baraboo Court House, 515 Oak St, Baraboo, WI 53913 If you cannot show in person, call Wisconsin media: Wisconsin State Journal, rschultz@madison.com, 608-252-6487 NPR Wisconsin, 800-747-7444, listener@wpr.org and Wisconsin governor Scott Walker by calling 608-266-1212 or Faxing 608-267-8983 him, telling them: “Governor Scott Walker is wasting time and valuable tax dollars on trying our farmer Vernon Hershberger. I, through my membership with Right To Choose Healthy Food, Charitable Trust, own the animals at Vernon Hershberger’s farm. We are co-farmers. I chose this private-farm arrangement because governmental health departments were forcing me to consume chemically contaminated corporate food in the name of food safety. I would much rather take my risks with bacteria in food than disease-causing contaminants made or added in food-processing. The Constitution articulates my God given right to pursue life, liberty and happiness. For me, there is nothing that provides more for life, liberty and happiness than the health that my fresh, direct-from-the-farm food gives me. Governments have to stop persecuting family farmers and go after corporate and government criminals who harm people now.” GIST OF THE CASE SO FAR: The two judges, Evenson and Guy Reynolds who have over-lorded this case, have proven to be extremely favorable to the State (which pays them, and for whom they work) and great prejudice against farmer Hershberger. The deck is so stacked in favor of the State that the State has better chances of winning the case than casino houses have of beating their customers. After fighting the FDA, HHS, US Congress, states, counties and health departments for 45 years on the raw milk issue, I fear this is a 

I’m not sure how I only just realized that it’s Memorial Day weekend already. And of course the minute I did, my mind turned to weekend getaways. And if you’re looking for somewhere to get out and drink with your cheese in Virginia this weekend, I highly recommend Early Mountain Vineyards in Madison (on the Monticello Wine Trail). Yes, they’ve got a gorgeous tasting room, beautiful grounds, and supplement their own offerings with a curated selection of wines from around the Commonwealth. But you know I gave them extra credit for a cheese menu that actually contains Virginia cheeses, too. Selections from Caromont Farm and Everona Dairy* were offered on our visit. (And yes, they serve other food — salads, sandwiches and more prepared in the market kitchen.) According to twitter, they’ve got an entire rosé flight for spring. We visited in the fall, so I can’t speak to the current menu, but at the time I greatly enjoyed the 2011 Flying Fox Vineyard Rosé, from Afton. Early Mountain gets even more extra credit for providing picnic blankets, hammocks, games and bubble wands for the kids, too. (And fire pits and cornhole for the kids of all ages.) If you’re keeping track, that means they score a 110 on the Cheese and Champagne grading system. Check the event calendar for live music through the summer, too. Any locals have another favorite Virginia winery to share? Let us know! * It is with much sadness that we note the recent passing of Dr. Pat Elliott, founder of Everona Dairy in Rapidan, Va. Culture magazine profiled Dr. Pat in a previous issue, but locals will recall her long-standing presence at DC area FRESHFARM Markets. She may have been the first artisan cheesemaker I ever met — at a Slow Food DC dinner several years ago, I was as excited about bumping into her outside the ladies’ room as a normal person might be over a Hollywood celebrity. We cheese paparazzi are a strange bunch… but she was always accommodating of our questions. You’ll be missed, Dr. Pat!

Fred Meyer’s Murray’s CheeseMongers Spreading the Curd As Murray’s Cheese and Kroger continue their mission of bringing Specialty Cheese into the homes of America, more and more shops are opening which means more opportunities to become a Cheesemonger for one of the largest retail grocers in the US. Fred Meyer is looking to hire a Cheese Master for its Murray’s Cheese Shop that will be opening at their Tualatin location this August: Do you have a passion for food and you’re a great leader? Fred Meyer is now hiring for a Full-time hourly position as a Murray’s Cheese Master at the Tualatin Fred Meyer Location! Primary Purpose Creating a unique customer cheese experience that will embody the food passion, cheese knowledge, interactive customer service, team leadership and industry leading merchandising that is uniquely Murray’s Cheese; working closely with Deli Merchandising and District Staff, as well as other Murray’s Cheese Associates to create an environment of outgoing, personal, theatrical cheese retailing within the store environment; demonstrating proactive selling and superior product knowledge to drive sales in a targeted manner… Essential Functions: Models “Customer 1st” behavior; delivers and encourages other Associates to deliver legendary Customer service Creates and maintains the Murray’s Cheese experience: interactive customer service, ongoing product education, effective cross-selling, merchandising, pushing and promoting designated products Cuts, wraps, and merchandises cheese and related grocery items Maintains knowledgeable, efficient, friendly staff fully trained in Murray’s operations and products Ensures all Fred Meyer and Murray’s policies, operating standards, and procedures are communicated effectively, maintained, and followed at all times Ensures that Associates adhere to all Food Safety, HACCP and Sanitation Procedures Places orders and maintains inventory Sets up weekly in-store selling events (cross-departmental tastings, classes, dinners) Contributes to store goals for increasing sales and improving profit Effectively controls shrink and waste by following Murray’s and Fred Meyer’s best practices Controls labor expenses through appropriate scheduling Meets and/or exceeds budgetary goals for the Murray’s Cheese Shop Reacts with urgency to changing sales opportunities Ensures the condition of the facilities Qualifications: High school diploma or general education degree (GED) plus a minimum of two years retail and/or cheese/specialty cheese/food experience and two years Customer service experience; or equivalent combination of education and experience. Other Skills Required: Minimum 18 years of age Ability to pass drug test Commitment to providing Customer service that makes both internal and external Customers feel welcome, important, and appreciated Ability and willingness to move with purpose and a strong sense of urgency Complete Murray’s Basic Skills Training and Murray’s Red Jacket Training Ability to work weekends on a frequent basis Accuracy and attention to detail Ability to organize and prioritize a variety of tasks/projects Willing to taste cheese regularly following FM Associate Sampling policy To apply for this position please email a letter of interest and resume to Jennae Levasseur at, [Click Here to Email Your Resume] Fred Meyer is an Equal Opportunity Employer Headquartered in Cincinnati, Ohio, The Kroger Co. is one of the largest retailers in the United States based on annual sales, holding the #22 ranking on the Fortune 100 list. Kroger was founded in 1883 and incorporated in 1902. Kroger operates 2,481 supermarkets, In addition to supermarkets, Kroger operates 771 convenience stores and 385 fine jewelry stores. About Fred Meyer Fred Meyer is based in Portland, Oregon with 129 stores in OR, WA, ID. Fred G. Meyer, originally of New York City, opened his first public market at the corner of Fifth and Yamhill in downtown Por

Bread by the kilo. One of the “must-see” markets in Berlin is the Turkish market in Kreuzberg, held along the canal by the Schönleinstraße U-bahn stop. There’s a sizable Turkish population in the city, and to serve them, this semi-weekly market (Tuesdays and Fridays) offers special breads, spices, vegetables, household items, cloth, and more. There are also some great specialty jams, waffles, prepared meals from several African cuisines, and cheeses. It was here I came across Natursprung, owned by dedicated cheesemonger Achim Freitag. When I happened upon him, he was helping another Anglophone customer, so I sidled up and asked him to show me some of the lovely cheeses of Germany. He pulled out Backensholzer Deichkäse Gold from the case, a gold-yellow raw cow’s milk cheese reminiscent of a gouda in some respects (I sensed a sweet, butterscotch undertone). Then there was Eifelwürze, an old ivory-colored aged raw goat cheese from Vulkanhof, a maker in the western part of Germany, that reminded me of fruit and almonds. I settled on two other cheeses for my refrigerator—a classic Tilsiter and a Kürbiskern Walnuss Käse, semi-hard goat cheese dotted with walnuts and sunflower seeds. Checking out German cheeses at the market. The Kürbiskern Walnuss cheese had a most unusual paste—it looked and felt like thousands of curds layered and pressed together. The paste flaked off in my mouth instead of dissolving, like geological striations. It was as though thousands of tiny cheeses joined together to create one aggregate wheel. The taste was quite delicate with elements of mushroom, umami, and flowers all rolled into one. I loved the rind of this cheese because that’s where the flavor was concentrated, giving off an element of sweet milk. The nuts throughout the cheese offered some body and a slight bitterness. As for the Tilsiter, I found it brilliant. Achim the cheesemonger informed me that it’s quite common since it’s a traditional German cheese, but I think I’d have a hard time finding such a great one in the States. It is smear-ripened, wiped in a brine solution while it ages, so brace yourself when you sniff it! Getting past the sweaty feet smell, I found the flavors full and direct, honest as a traditional country cheese should be. There was a strong meaty beginning which gave way to fruity (apple?) and nutty notes not unlike Gruyère. It dissolved easily; there was hardly any chewing needed. A little certainly went a long way, though. Just another day at the market! Tilsiter. Kürbiskern Walnuss Käse.

The trial of Amish raw milk man Vernon Herschberger is unfolding this week in Baraboo Wisconsin. American food rights journalist David E. Gumpert has published many blog posts detailing the pre-courthouse skirmishes in the case, intended for the most part to avoid dealing with the larger raw milk and food rights issues at stake and focusing the case purely on the purported regulatory improprieties Herschberger is charged with. If you haven’t been following David’s “The Complete Patient” blog lately, do scroll down there to read some of the backstory. Here’s an excerpt from David’s latest report from the Baraboo courthouse: Raw milk farmers Michael Schmidt and Vernon Herschberger, at a raw milk event in Wisconsin, from when Michael was still allowed to travel. Photo via Modern Farmer. Click to go there. “I had assumed that the tension and drama in the Vernon Hershberger raw milk trial would build gradually over the expected five days of the proceedings, culminating in a verdict that would either acquit him or possibly send him to jail for up to two-and-a-half years. Yet there I and dozens of other attendees were in the opening minutes of the trial, before even the newly-selected jury of a dozen area citizens, and two alternates, had been brought in, sitting on the edges of our seats. The two sides in the case were engaged in an intense argument over a prosecution motion to prevent the defense from presenting information to the jury about the membership arrangement that drives Hershberger’s food club; such a prohibition would prevent the defense from including among its witnesses members of Hershberger’s private food club. The prosecution had previously convinced the judge to rule its way on a number of important issues–no arguments about Hershberger’s possibly criminal intent for failing to obtain retail and dairy licenses, no arguments about the safety of raw milk, no arguments about the regulators’ reasons for going after Hershberger via the infamous raid of June 2010, which led the raw milk farmer to break the seals and cut the tape intended by the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade, and Consumer Protection (DATCP) to shut down his farm store. Now, they wanted the private membership arrangements excluded because they would suggest Hershberger had an “exception” from Wisconsin regulations requiring retail and dairy permits. “There are places like Sam’s Club where there is a membership and there is no exception,” argued Eric DeFort, an assistant attorney general with the Wisconsin Department of Justice….” More on The Complete Patient blog. David’s story in The Modern Farmer is a good primer on the case.

The last time I was in Berlin, I dined at Vino e Libri, a Sardinian restaurant near my place in Prenzlauer Berg. As much as I loved my meal, I saw that there was another dish I needed to try—house-made taglioni tossed in a flaming wheel of grana padano and then topped with white truffle shavings. This time around, I knew what to order. The wheel of grana was new, and my order was going to break it in! It was predictably delicious. ] After scraping the surface, some alcohol is lit on the cheese and the whole ensemble is tossed. Truffles in that silver clamshell. The finished product!

Archigram’s “Walking City” image via Technoccult. Click image for more on that. From Michael Pollan in the New York Times: “I can tell you the exact date that I began to think of myself in the first-person plural — as a superorganism, that is, rather than a plain old individual human being. It happened on March 7. That’s when I opened my e-mail to find a huge, processor-choking file of charts and raw data from a laboratory located at the BioFrontiers Institute at the University of Colorado, Boulder. As part of a new citizen-science initiative called the American Gut project, the lab sequenced my microbiome — that is, the genes not of “me,” exactly, but of the several hundred microbial species with whom I share this body. These bacteria, which number around 100 trillion, are living (and dying) right now on the surface of my skin, on my tongue and deep in the coils of my intestines, where the largest contingent of them will be found, a pound or two of microbes together forming a vast, largely uncharted interior wilderness that scientists are just beginning to map. I clicked open a file called Taxa Tables, and a colorful bar chart popped up on my screen. Each bar represented a sample taken (with a swab) from my skin, mouth and feces. For purposes of comparison, these were juxtaposed with bars representing the microbiomes of about 100 “average” Americans previously sequenced. Here were the names of the hundreds of bacterial species that call me home. In sheer numbers, these microbes and their genes dwarf us. It turns out that we are only 10 percent human: for every human cell that is intrinsic to our body, there are about 10 resident microbes — including commensals (generally harmless freeloaders) and mutualists (favor traders) and, in only a tiny number of cases, pathogens. To the extent that we are bearers of genetic information, more than 99 percent of it is microbial. And it appears increasingly likely that this “second genome,” as it is sometimes called, exerts an influence on our health as great and possibly even greater than the genes we inherit from our parents. But while your inherited genes are more or less fixed, it may be possible to reshape, even cultivate, your second genome….” More in the New York Times. Technoccult’s riff on the microbiome concept: “Humans are Just Biomechanical Suit Cities for Bacteria” “The City Is A Battlesuit For Surviving The Future” Matt Jones wrote in 2009, referencing Archigram‘s Walking City. As I’ve noted before we fill that same role for bacteria. Food guru Michael Pollan has picked up on the “we’re more bacteria than human” meme and written an long, impressive New York Times article about it. He doesn’t go so far as to bring up the theory that oil is actually the excrement of bacteria that live beneath the earth’s crust, not the decomposed organic matter from the surface, as suggested by Thomas Gold (and apparently some unnamed Russians). If Gould is right then humans not just city-suits for bacteria, but also a waste disposal system for bacteria. This idea led Reza Negarestani to obliquely postulate that global warming will actually function to make the surface of the earth hot enough for those particular bacteria to live on the surface of the earth as well. Which means we’re doing, like, triple duty for our bacterial masters….” More from Technoccult.

Those of you, our loyal readers, who have been on this cheese journey with The Lady and Moi since 2008, might recall we began the journey not too enamored of cheeses of the goat persuasion. That was largely the result of an aged goat cheese that took the enamel off my fangs and had The Man, The Lady and me wondering who in their right mind would eat something that tasted like a buck in heat smelled… But Cheesemakers like Allison Hooper of Vermont Butter and Creamery, Rhonda Gothberg of Gothberg Farms, Mary Keehn of Cypress Grove and Bob Stetson of Westfield Farms changed that fear (and loathing) into a friendship that soon became a passionate love of good (and great) goat cheeses… adding to that passion is Pat Morford’s lovely cheeses she makes at Three Ring Farm and sells under her branding of River’s Edge Chevre. When Murray’s Cheese began opening in the Pacific Northwest at Fred Meyer and QFC stores in Seattle and Portland, the local cheeses included three from River’s Edge, Silt Coos (which we have previously reviewed), Cape Foulweather and Up In Smoke. The reviews of these cheeses is long overdue but with The Lady’s travels, sometimes I get behind in my duties… what with napping and hanging out with The Man… a cat can only do so many things… Up In Smoke is a fresh chevre that Pat has wrapped in smoked maple leaves and then spritzed with bourbon to add even more smoldering smokiness to the taste of this award-winning delicacy. All we did was slather it on 34 Degree Crackers and enjoy. What a delight; the tang of the chevre blends perfectly with the smoke and the bourbon. It’s creamy and crumbly at the same time; leaving a lingering taste on the palate. It comes in little quarter pound disks; just the right size for snacking and adding to a cheese board. I give Up In Smoke 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got)**. Serving Suggestions: On a cracker is a safe bet but you can go wild and add a few grapes or nuts to the mix. Spirit Pairing: How about bourbon? Source: Fresh, pasteurized goat milk. The third cheese from River’s Edge we tasted is Cape Foulweather, a soft-ripened cheese sprinkled with ash to inhibit the growth of the bad bacteria and encourage the growth of the good ones of which The Lady is learning, there are many… Cape Foulweather is a pyramid-shaped cheese whose namesake is a 500 foot outcropping on the Southern Oregon Coast; sighted and named by Captain Cook on one of his journeys before he pissed off the Natives of Hawaii… The one we tasted was young and the paste was still firm, smooth and dense with a strongish tang. As it ages it will become creamier in texture. Again, we stayed naked and just enjoyed it on crackers with nothing else to adorn it nor to detract from its luscious citrus taste. It’s another 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got)** for Cape Foulweather. Wine Pairing: Champagne is the perfect pairing for this cheese. **And once again, for those of you who have written in about my ratings’ system; The Lady and I are here to “celebrate cheese” so you’ll rarely see us denigrate cheese (other than that first aged goat cheddar and the cryovaced Caerphilly of days long ago in our cheese journey)… now days, if it’s not a 3 or 4 Paws cheese, we just keep our thoughts to ourselves…

Nadine Ijaz was invited to present on raw milk science to the BC Centre for Disease Control. Watch Nadine’s presentation online.  Click image to go to site to see video of Nadine’s presentation on raw milk. Not sure how long this presentation will be available for viewing. Earlier post on The Bovine about Nadine being invited to give this presentation.