Climbing

Analogica Natural 9aAfter our latest video “Essential Items”, I have been getting so many emails and messages about what gear I use, what pair of shoes I prefer for a certain cliff, what backpack I recommend, etc… Instead of responding selectively it gave me an idea to just bang out a blog post and lay it all on the table.  Gear is awesome and there are a lot of gear-heads out there and well… I get it because I love gear too!  Yes I am a sponsored climber and use a specific product and might have a bit of a biased opinion, but the truth be told we all have a choice in what gear we use and I am specific so I hope this all helps.  I look at every companies gear and compare and contrast all the time.  I mean this is part of my “job”.  I choose this stuff because it works for me, I am comfortable using it, it makes my life easier/safer and again… I am VERY specific.I have always gone with the mentality of purchasing the better product and you get what you pay for… basically, why skimp and use something unsubstantial?  Here is the gear I am currently using and why.  Mind you I am primarily the dude who goes to the cliff and then home at night.  I don’t like to change my clothes after climbing to go out to eat, I look for style/esthetics and function, and I also like versatility… meaning the day I decide to go alpine this stuff will be usable.  Packs, Clothes, Shoes, Gear, and Ropes.  VAMOS!!!!!!!!!!!! PacksPrimarily I have two different packs I use and both are chosen due to the size of the load I am carrying.  For me a 35 Liter pack is my standard size.  35 liters is plenty of space for a trip to the crag and will fit multiple pairs of shoes, harness, draws, gri-gri, chalk, food, water, jacket, and anything else smaller like a pair of pants or more layers. I am a big fan of the entire Z-series of Gregory Packs and have used the Z35 for years now.  It’s a sleek, clean, ventilated pack.   It’s a top-loader with other usable pockets for the easy access stuff and for the person that likes to stay organized and designate pouches for things like chalk (to avoid it covering all of your gear).  There is a bladder pouch, but I rarely use it.  The pack carries light and is similar to a thin harness where you barely know it’s on and moves with your body.More Info Here…The second pack I use at the moment is the Targhee 45 and is not on the market right now but will be come this fall.  It is an INSANELY bad-ass back pack and is my primary pack for pretty much everything including carry-on for travel.  The pack was designed for the skier’s needs, but as always can be used the same for climbers like myself.  I would say it’s a hefty 45 Liters and feels bigger than that.  The pack pannel (against your back) unzips entirely creating a giant openning for stuffing your gear into easily.  There is also a lid that flips back and allows for top-loading as well to really stuff the thing full.  I can carry all of the gear I mentioned above plus a rope with this thing.   It looks sleek and has great colors.  The harness works with your body as it was designed for sport and is very sturdy.  I use the ice-axe loops for things like a tripod or stick-clip.  The lid is used for trinkets like tape, nailclippers, and bars and a giant outside front pouch I use for chalk and to stuff clothes I peel off during hikes.  There is a pouch for a bladder but again I don’t use it and prefer to stuff my knee-pads there as it just makes sense to me.More Info Here… ClothesMy biggest concern for climbing clothing is the lack of hindering any movement what-so-ever.  The pants must fit properly and allow you to lift your legs and have zero resistance.  I usually wear a stretchy jean, Rumney pants, or Trailhead pants.  I want a pair of pants that won’t rip, will allow me to knee-bar and provide a little protection to the skin, and will last a long time.  I think my a

After all the writing last week, some nice photos to mix it up today. If anyone discusses over whether to get an iPhone or not, my default answer is for the camera alone, an iPhone every time (the Panaroma feature works automagically, no extra apps/gimmicks required. Enjoy. Portrane last week on a beautiful day. Fond memories of my first forays bouldering outdoors here! Naomi, of ElementsYoga (and provider of the climbing yoga classes at Awesome Walls and near Gravity) making the most of a nice platform up the path. Main bouldering area in Glendalough all below and to the left. First time I'd ever seen this happening in Glendalough! Theo walking a slackline across the river yesterday. Super inspiring to watch! ....and thinking about the return journey. Which turned out to be much harder as the line was downhill so requires more preparation. Next time Theo!!!!!

{Warning Adult Language) In January a few homies and I made our way to Arkansas to sample some world class sandstone. This is the product of that trip. Climbers include Dave Wetmore, Nate Draughn, Rami Annab and me! Problems include Full Package V13, Glass Bowl V10, Fred’s Cave V11, Anti Hero V12, Welcome to Fight Club V13, Color of Fire V10, Shadow Jumper V11. ~Jimmy Webb, prAna Ambassador [vm] Learn more about Jimmy at http://www.prana.com/life/ambassadors

Beau Kahler was on the scene in Guanella Pass, CO yesterday as Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson did the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of Dave Graham’s The Ice Knife (V15).  Graham put up the problem back in 2011 calling it one of the most challenging problems he had done in some time.  The problem hadn’t seen much effort in the intervening years, but once Woods and Robinson set to work it didn’t take long before quick progress was made toward seeing a repeat or two.  There is mention of a sit start being possible so this probably isn’t the last we’ve heard of this boulder. Woods was fresh of doing the FA of a new problem called The Purge in Tickland Elkland outside Estes Park, CO.  On his 8a scorecard he calls this proposed V14 “the full package line” and notes that he had to climb on it at night to get better conditions.

I didn't travel out of the Northeast in April. It was a strange feeling. Although climbing was kept to the local crags, I did accomplish a lot-- I hired 10 new summer camp staff members and put some final details on the summer camp that I run, SumMAT Camp (which stands for SUMmer Mountain Adventure Training) through Petra Cliffs Climbing Center in Burlington, VT. For the record, I tried to drop the T and change the name last year to Summa Camp, but met resistance. A little Bahston flair, what do you think?Evan climbing in Acadia National Park, Maine, during an 11-day expeditionDuring SumMAT Camp, kids ages 6-16 participate in day camps and 4-11 day overnight trips involving rock climbing, caving, kayaking, ropes courses, backpacking, camping, and general Leave No Trace, environmental stewardship, and climbing ethics/etiquette. I am so proud of all of the kids who come through our program, and I'm excited that they are exposed to the Mammut brand at an early age-- they love Stompy! Some kids are naturals at the activities, some have to work hard. All, by the end of camp, understand "challenge by choice" and "perceived risk vs. actual risk"-- and many of the campers stick around to become employees, and then friends. It's a great community and we're happy to be using Mammut gear all around!Hanging out at home base.The El Cap helmet is perfect for kids!Vermont has some spectacular swimming holes, clear and cold.Kayaking on the Winooski River. Mammut carabiners are essential for containing the guide's gear when the kids flip him.The Mammut Gym Rental harness allows for maximum flexibility at the ropes course...Camp often closes with a Friday afternoon Limbo sessionMe and a favorite camper, RoryThe 2012 SumMAT StaffClimbing in the neighboring AdirondacksVermont has some amazing views! Bolton, VT, with a view of Mt. MansfieldMammut emerges from the underground, Weybridge, VT (a 50' rappel into the cave!) I did manage to score the cover of Climberism Magazine this month though, climbing the classic Rose, a 100' overhanging handcrack in Bolton VT!Hasta pronto~ Andrea Charest

Mateusz Haladaj has done Ciudad de dios which is his fourt 9a in Santa Linya the last 12 months and he is #5 in the ranking game. "So happy! My desired and hardest project so far. Solid grade considering there are two 8c+ sections in a row, feels closer to 9a+? Very thanks to all the nice people I?ve met in the cave for a great atmosphere and support. Hasta proxima amigos!

Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods have done two nice double sends in Guanella Pass by flashing Double Dutchez 8A+ and doing the first repeates of dave Graham's excellent The Ice Knife 8C for which Daniel comments. "Perfect alpine temps... Snow mixed with blue skies and rolling clouds made it a majestic day. Overhung and technical compression climbing. Everything must click perfectly. Was fun to work it with Paul and have a double send day. Nice one Dave! The sit is next!

Maggie Smith-Odette has done her first 8b, Faithless in Coliseum which is very impressive as she started to climb when she was 29 years old and now is 43. "FFA. hardest thing i've ever done. nothing better than a route that pumps the shit out of you before you get to the hard moves! ***

Join the adventure on Friday June 21st and make a small adventure big!We've teamed up with Al Humphreys and our friends at Trek, Howies and Osprey for the #Microadventure 2013 Challenge.Adventure? A spirit of trying something new, pushing your boundaries, going somewhere different, leaving your comfort zone? It could be one of many things, but above all, adventure is about enthusiasm, ambition, open-mindedness and curiosity.Some may see an adventure as being something big, expensive or time consuming, but it need not be. Adventure isn’t all about rowing oceans, climbing mountains or cycling around the world; by simply entering the 2013 Microadventure Competition you could soon be out there on an adventure of your very own. So what is a microadventure? Well in simple terms, it’s an adventure on your doorstep. Having a 9 to 5 job need not prevent you from having an adventure, what about your 5pm to 9am? Those 16 hours of freedom are crying out for a #microadventure! Get out there & explore the beauty and wilderness at a minimal cost and close to home. Do it alone, with friends & family or even with your work colleagues, it’s totally up to you. The choice is yours when it comes to a #microadventure!(heres a video of Al and the team from Trek on their recent Microadventure)Wherever you might be, however busy you are, sign up to the competition and commit to a #microadventure, you will soon be asleep under the stars, wrapped up in your bivvy enjoying the local surroundings of the great outdoors.The #Microadventure 2013 Challenge: June 21stThe aim is to get as many people as possible having an overnight summer solstice #microadventure on the evening of June 21st. The summer solstice will be in midsummer, a Friday night, and there will be an almost full moon (which this month also happens to be a "super moon"). After work, instead of going home, head out into the countryside with your chosen #microadventure crew and cycle, run, walk, kayak, scrap the tent if you dare, and spend a night under the stars. It’s a simple idea but full of fun.Enter the CompetitionIt’s important to note that anyone can take part in the #microadventure, but to be in with a chance of winning, whilst on your adventure or when you arrive home, you must choose to do one of the following: • Twitter - Drop a tweet/pic about your expedition and #microadventure• Facebook – ‘Like’ us on Facebook and post your pic:http://on.fb.me/11RLCJE• Instagram - Upload your micro adventure snap and #microadventure• Flickr – Submit an image and tag microadventure.• Vine Video - Submit your video and #microadventure, check out the example: https://vine.co/v/brJ5BOr10tH• Vimeo - Add video to group Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/microadventuresBy entering the competition you will automatically be entered into a prize draw, and as an added extra, if you make a movie of your adventure and share it, you could be in with a chance of winning big! There are no set rules because that would be boring; we just offer guidance, asking you to stay safe, have fun and be wild. Oh and don’t forget to submit your media to any of the above – make your adventure seen and be in with a chance of winning. Explore it, climb it, ride it, experience it… remember, adventure is only a state of mind, go create!You can check out more Microadventures at - www.alastairhumphreys.comPhotos: Geoff Waugh & Al Humphreys