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What a weekend. I truly love the Red River Gorge. Especially this time of year! Though the first day was pretty hot darnit! We had a "hot spell" but just used that as one of our excuses to flail at Drive-By. I haven't climb at Drive...
What a weekend. I truly love the Red River Gorge. Especially this time of year! Though the first day was pretty hot darnit! We had a "hot spell" but just used that as one of our excuses to flail at Drive-By. I haven't climb at Drive-By in at least a year or so, and definitely haven't climbed there since I lost all my weight so after warming up, I was caught in the dilemma of "which .13a to try?" The choice was between "Beer Belly", "Spank" and "Easy Rider". "Beer Belly" was clearly the hardest of the three from what all my friends said, but was the most classic and that was the one I picked.Beer Belly 5.13a starts off in the obvious awkward dihedral that is shared with "Head and Shoulders" 5.11d but busts right into one of the coolest sloper traverse sequences I've ever fallen off of. The crux is pretty short - maybe 6? moves on friction dependent slopers, culminating with a long move off so-so holds to a jug!! After the big move, there are ?2 bolts of 11+ climbing which is capped off by one more HARD - V4ish boulder problem on small holds. I really feel like I can take the route all the way to the last bolt on RP and then FALL there! I can't wait :)Our second day, we climbed at the "Darkside" where I focused my day working "Tuskan Raider" 5.12d. The Darkside is one of most consistently steep walls at the red...I know the red is steep, but the Darkside is STEEPER!! The name for this wall is apt as the thing never sees direct sunlight. Ever. Tuskan Raider starts off with a fairly difficult V3/4 boulder problem on small but textured holds. The boulder problem gives way to an easy ledge traverse and two bolts of fairly easy climbing - maybe mid range 5.11 to the full on crux boulder problem at the "iconic" pocket band. The pocket band is essentially a horizontal chunk of stone about 1/3 of the way up the rock that is covered in shallow "bowling ball style" pockets for about 20 feet (where most of the cruxes are.) Tuskan's crux involves a several hard moves on decent to so-so pockets finishing with a big move to a huge hueco. The climber can rest in the hole here, then its maybe 12a to the next bolt then increasingly easier with a whopping 5.9 move to the anchor! I put about five goes into it my second day, though my last go I stuck the "crux" crimper but just didn't have the power to do one more move to the glory jug....I couldn't live with myself...I dreamed about the route, going over the moves in my head and day 3 managed to convince my friend Mayas from Canada to head back to the Darkside with me. Conditions were perfect. It was chilly, windy and friction was perfect!! After warming up my hands and doing some light bouldering, I stick clipped and easily took the route to the anchors!!!Training - Definitely worthwhile!!Tuskan Raider 5.12dTuskan Raider 5.12dTuskan Raider 5.12d
about 5 hours ago
Heads up if you own any Wild Country Rocks or Classic Rocks: For the safety of all of our customers we are issuing an immediate recall of certain batches of Wild Country Classic Rocks and Anodised Rocks If you own any Wild Country Classi...
Heads up if you own any Wild Country Rocks or Classic Rocks: For the safety of all of our customers we are issuing an immediate recall of certain batches of Wild Country Classic Rocks and Anodised Rocks If you own any Wild Country Classic Rocks and/or Anodised Rocks that were purchased any time from January 2010 onwards please read the PDF notices carefully and follow the instructions “How to Identify the Product”, so that you can ascertain whether your product is from one of the affected batches.
about 5 hours ago
Breath has the ability to control our physiology, temperament and can help us balance the world outside & within. Shot in Hawaii, Shiva Re takes us on her journey from hectic to ecstatic. [yt] Learn more about Shiva Rea at http://www.pra...
Breath has the ability to control our physiology, temperament and can help us balance the world outside & within. Shot in Hawaii, Shiva Re takes us on her journey from hectic to ecstatic. [yt] Learn more about Shiva Rea at http://www.prana.com/life/ambassadors/
about 7 hours ago
Everyting is set for the live streaming competition starting tomorrow at 12.00 including Daniel Woods and Sasha Digulian climbing on eight new routes on a new sector on Kalymnos. Today, Jacobo Larcher and his bolting team is spending the...
Everyting is set for the live streaming competition starting tomorrow at 12.00 including Daniel Woods and Sasha Digulian climbing on eight new routes on a new sector on Kalymnos. Today, Jacobo Larcher and his bolting team is spending their 15th day preparing the 15-35 m routes, the 15 min path and putting up fixed ropes for the camera men. It was local Claude Idoux who found the new amphitheatre which always have some routes in the shade. The speculative grades are 7c+, 8b, 8b/+ and 8c/+ for the male and 7c+, 8a, 8b and 8b/+ for the women and it is about to do the most routes in less attempts to win the 3 000 Euro.
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about 19 hours ago
Some few weeks ago, Barbara Zangerl completed the extreme multi-pitch trilogy in the Alps by sending in chronological order 'The End of Silence' (8b+ max.), 'Silbergeier' (8b+ max.) y 'Des Kaisers Neue Kleider' (8b+ max). Esteban Diez...
Some few weeks ago, Barbara Zangerl completed the extreme multi-pitch trilogy in the Alps by sending in chronological order 'The End of Silence' (8b+ max.), 'Silbergeier' (8b+ max.) y 'Des Kaisers Neue Kleider' (8b+ max). Esteban Diez Fern?ndez had a short talk with this austrian climber on the trilogy consecution, the comparison amongst these routes, etc.. Pic? Ignacio Sandoval Bur?n.
about 19 hours ago
So what do you like doing a competition on rock that is streamed live? "It is fantastic. It is the future as it enables climbers around the world to share what we like the best. I love watching live-streaming and just hope the signal wi...
So what do you like doing a competition on rock that is streamed live? "It is fantastic. It is the future as it enables climbers around the world to share what we like the best. I love watching live-streaming and just hope the signal will not break. Imagine how cool it would be to check live streaming when climbers around the world are trying their project. I hope to be able to stream my projects in the future and if so it could be cool to have a daily list on 8a where we can see our friends trying their projects. What is next on the list for you? I have some projects to finish but I think that I will gradually move to sport and trad I think where there are more room for improvements. But first I would like to establish an 8C+, my pyramid is wide enough for going for the next level. I am going to Indian Creen to do some trad climbing. I had planned to go for Jumbo Love (9b) but my partner could not do it so now I am thinking of going to Spain to try some of the hardest routes in the world. I hope to take my bouldering experience and to apply it to sport and trad.
about 19 hours ago
Could this be the first News & Notes post on this site since May of 2012?  Well, no.  But these are a few newsworthy tidbits that have taken place of late. Paul Robinson is coming off a 4 day stretch that saw him repeat Warpath (V14) in ...
Could this be the first News & Notes post on this site since May of 2012?  Well, no.  But these are a few newsworthy tidbits that have taken place of late. Paul Robinson is coming off a 4 day stretch that saw him repeat Warpath (V14) in Castle Rock, Idaho followed by repeats of We Can Build You (V14) and Warrior Up (V14 or V15) at Lincoln Lake near Mt. Evans.  Also seizing the Last Day, Best Day1 mentality was Michael O’Rourke who added his name to the short list of people who have climbed Warrior Up. Paul on We Can Build You Paul on Warrior Up Nearby at Mt. Evans’ Area A, Isabelle Faus made pretty quick work of the benchmark V12 No More Greener Grasses. And over in Europe, Thomasina Pidgeon has logged repeats in Magic Wood of Left Hand Of Darkness (V12) and Right Hand Of Darkness (V11).  The road to Mt. Evans closes every fall and both Robinson and O’Rourke sent Warrior Up the last day the road was drivable ↩
1 day ago
Gordon Bombay, Font 7c+ from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo. Esoteric gems are gems nonetheless. Yesterday I had to be in Edinburgh for a meeting with my Gore-Tex colleagues. On the way back I decided to swing past for a look at a couple o...
Gordon Bombay, Font 7c+ from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo. Esoteric gems are gems nonetheless. Yesterday I had to be in Edinburgh for a meeting with my Gore-Tex colleagues. On the way back I decided to swing past for a look at a couple of newly developed boulders near Lennoxtown. Alex Gorham found and developed a handful of problems on lovely sandstone in the woods near the old Lennox Castle mental hospital. He waxed lyrical about the problems to me in TCA recently and had me keen for a look, even before I’d seen the excellent video on Alex and Jen's blog of his first ascent of Gordon Bombay (Font 7c+). I went and repeated the problem after about an hour of finding the sequence. I thought I was going to get it on my second try, but the wrong sequence of toe hooks near the end seemed to get even more wrong before I figured out a better way. Toe hooks are one of my favourite moves, so I enjoyed it immensely and will be back to explore the area a bit more soon. The place is only 20 minutes from my mums house, right near my earliest climbing haunts of Dunglas and Craigmore, where I climbed before I even got my first pair of rockshoes. Back then I would have been totally over the moon to come across that roof (and the other excellent problems). I regret not having a stronger exploratory zeal at the time. But as a youngster I just looked in the guidebook for what others had done and didn’t think so independently. It took a few years before I realised there was nothing stopping me from just going out and searching for great new routes that were obviously out there, hiding in the local hills and forests. Fortunately, as a 35 year old, I still get over the moon to go and seek out and climb such a great problem. Even now it looks like the area will lend at least one more project to give me an excuse to return. It's well worth checking out the video below of Alex doing it. It's pretty obvious our different shapes (me being a short chap) means we climb it quite differently in places. The other problems, especially Wow Jen (V5) are great too! Lennoxtown Boulders from Alex Gorham on Vimeo. Dave MacLeod My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes
1 day ago
The Boulder White Clouds are Idaho at its best—stunning beauty, clear water and rich wildlife habitat. For decades, Idahoans have worked to conserve these mountains and strike a balance between protection, access and responsible use. Tha...
The Boulder White Clouds are Idaho at its best—stunning beauty, clear water and rich wildlife habitat. For decades, Idahoans have worked to conserve these mountains and strike a balance between protection, access and responsible use. That vision should move forward and our leaders in Washington, DC, should take note. It is imperative that this pristine land be used wisely and left whole and healthy for our kids and grandkids. [vm] Learn more about the Conservation Alliance at http://www.conservationalliance.com/
1 day ago
Really enjoyed this piece on The RV Project about the process behind Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both repeating Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC: Tom and Pete will be the first to tell you that they are not very strong. This is obvi...
Really enjoyed this piece on The RV Project about the process behind Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both repeating Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC: Tom and Pete will be the first to tell you that they are not very strong. This is obviously “rubbish,” as they’ve now done the hardest offwidth and now one of the hardest finger cracks in the world. I think what they mean is that they are not well-established. There will soon be a second film about them, but they don’t do comps, haven’t moved to Boulder or Innsbruck or Yosemite. When they listed the Cobra ascentionists on the Earlmaker, they remarked on how silly their names looked next to Honnold, Favresse, Trotter and the rest. “A couple of punters” was a phrase oft employed self-referentially. Weird.  I’m a punter as well, but unlike these guys I never actually send anything.  I’ll have to find out what their secret is.
1 day ago