Gourmet

Julia Crowley was the first wine blogger that I met in NYC, after I sent out a tweet asking if anyone wanted to share a cab to our first tasting of Scarpa Wines. Julia immediately accepted and met me in the lobby. However, fellow Snooth PVA bloggers (and former NYC residents) Megan and R.J. soon joined us, and we all took the subway uptown. It was an early precursor to the camaraderie that would follow online for weeks and months after the event. I met so many fascinating writers on that trip, and the purpose of this interview series is to introduce them to my readers. Important note to avoid confusion: my girlfriend Julia, mentioned many times on this blog, and Julia Crowley are two different people. Additionally, neither were the inspiration for The Beatles, Robert Herrick, or the 1960s TV show starring Diahann Carroll. Hopefully that's clear for everyone.Julia's site was named the Best New Wine Blog of 2012 by the Wine Blog Awards, and I wanted to get to know some more about her own history and philosophy surrounding the world of wine. BWR: Did Oregon make you fall in love with wine or did wine influence your current state of residence?Julia: Oregon made me fall in love with Pinot Noir, but years earlier, a visit to the Loire Valley of France made me fall in love with wine. My sister and I stayed one night in an absolutely amazing castle in Brissac, France, named Château de Brissac. We were the only two people staying in the stunning (and huge) castle, aside from the owners: the Duke and Duchess of Brissac. After an amazing dinner in the main dining room of the castle with the Duke and Duchess, the Duke handed us a bottle of 1998 Château de Brissac Cabernet Franc Anjou-Villages-Brissac along with two wine glasses. He then said, "explore, discover...the castle is yours tonight." We explored for hours - discovering unique rooms, several small theaters, secret tunnels with doorways hidden behind large hanging tapestries, fascinating art work and statues, fireplaces so big we could walk into them...all while enjoying every single sip of the first Cabernet Franc I had ever had. It was an unforgettable evening, and I fell head over heels in love with wine.Years later, when my husband and I along with our two young boys moved from Florida to Oregon, I was completely unaware of the high-caliber Pinot Noirs in Oregon - until we attended a neighborhood association party at a nearby winery located in the South Willamette Valley named Iris Vineyards. During that party, I tried my first Oregon Pinot Noir: Iris Vineyards 2005 Reserve Pinot. Ultimately, I was blown away by the sheer elegance it displayed, the bright red fruits and distinctive earthy notes flowed onto my palate in seamless, silky waves. Soft acidity added depth of character without overpowering the alluring fruit and earth components. This was the very moment that Oregon Pinot Noir captured my heart. Although Oregon wine didn't influence my current state of residence, it certainly influences my decision to stay-put and enjoy life in wine country to the fullest. BWR: What's your favorite Oregon wine + local food pairing? Bonus points if the dish features fiddlehead ferns or wild mushrooms. Julia: I like bonus points, and I love wild mushrooms. The best pairing I've ever had was a match made in heaven between Youngberg Hill's 2009 Natasha Block Pinot Noir and Beef Tenderloin Stroganoff prepared by Chef Chris Czarnecki of the famed Joel Palmer House. Definitely not your typical Beef Stroganoff, this one was made with wild Oregon Porcini and Trumpet mushrooms and served over rice. The earthiness of the mushrooms and savoriness of the creamy sauce paired flawlessly with the earthy finish on the Pinot. It was stellar. BWR: My first introduction to wine came in high school through some great tastings and a lot of Napa wine that I could experiment with in the kitchen while I was teaching myself to cook. How do you intend to introduce your own children to

“I’m a little upset with you over that blog post you wrote about Prosecco.” That was my introduction to Primo Franco, an iconic producer in Valdobbiadene, with years of history and dedication to the elevation of the simple sparkling wine of the Veneto that has become a world phenomenon. His equally disarming daughter Silvia had brought me here to their home for my last day in Valdobbiadene. Not sure where this afternoon was going, I replied, “I agree with you, I am upset as well, and you know why. So it seems we are fighting the same fight.”Primo is a force, a “Big Tree” one of a handful of men and women in the Italian landscape of the modern wine revolution that when you meet them, you know they’re playing for keeps. Primo has an intellectual and artistic side that is equally disarming. We share a love for architecture, both fans of Frank Lloyd Wright. Primo had been to Scottsdale to Taliesin West. “So you know also of Paolo Soleri?” I asked. It seems we will need to be taking a trip together in the future to visit Arcosanti; Primo had not.The organizers of Vino in Villa brought me here to Valdobbiadene and for six days I tasted many different Prosecco wines. I know more now that I did a week ago. I am also aware that I barely have scratched the surface of this wonderful and sometimes frustrating wine. My concerns have more often focused on the larger out-sourcers of Prosecco DOC. But there are also producers in Valdobbiadene who stretch their lines up to the edge of a tenuous credibility. They are fighting the good fight.There are millions of dollars at stake. Land values in Cartizze that rival Bordeaux First Growth’s, but with wines that sell for a fraction of the price. Extreme wine growing areas that require the ongoing hand of man (and woman) to tend to the vineyards. Some of the growers are getting older and cannot do the manual labor they once did. The relentless soil calls for more hands, more labor. Technology cannot solve everything. And young people aren’t all following in their parents or their grandparents footsteps.How is it one can open up a bottle or two of Prosecco over a plate of risotto with fresh asparagus and the libraries of thought, philosophy and art fling their doors wide open? With a family like the Franco’s it’s part of their everyday existence. It’s in the way they breathe. Prosecco is a part of it, a very important component. But this family has seen fit to chart farther shores and bring back their discoveries, Prosecco becoming more than a wine with mere bubbles. But Primo had me at Frank Lloyd Wright.Something about Primo Franco reminded me of Roberto Bava. Both love their wine and their terroir, but these men have become modern day Marco Polo’s. They are adventurers of the mind, the land and an esthete. These are kindred souls. How did I get here? What luck exposed me to these out of the ordinary people? This is what makes Italy great. Not the monuments or the museums crammed with forgotten masterpieces. Yes, those are wonderful to look upon and feast one’s eyes. But the blood in the stream of the idea of Italy through the ages, this comes from life in process. And on my last day in Valdobbiadene, Italy gave this parting gift.I should talk about the wines, yes? After all this is a wine blog, no?Primo had a program for the afternoon. He wanted me to taste a vertical of his cru, Grave di Stecca Brut, to see how the wine evolves. Primo is a terroirist as well, so we would be encountering some of that. But first he took me on a tour of his winery (not to see anymore stainless steel or autoclave, thank you very much) but to a little building in the back which he called his pensatoia(SP). He was a cube within a cube, an octagon like building with two floors. On the top was his thinking office, complete with two fireplaces. Below was his infernoti, his library, no, his history of Prosecco in bottles. “I think we should let you taste an old one. But not too old, this is just your first time here.” I wa

Pineapple mojito sangria (Still thirsty? See Liqurious)

Ginger Rhubarb Bee's Knees from the Bojon Gourmet (Still thirsty? See Liqurious)

There are as many recipes for cold Asian noodles as there are people in the world. That isn’t true. But it sometimes feels true. Versions of this vaguely Asian (pan-Asian?) dish (does anyone know the origins? or when this because popular in the states?) pop up on restaurant menus and recipes for it make regular rotations through food magazines. They always remind me of the 90′s and eating at restaurants that felt cosmopolitan because they had this or Chinese Chicken Salad on the menu (Wolfgang Puck, yo!). I love these type of noodles and am on a life-long quest to put together the perfect recipe. Whenever I find a new version to try, I consider it a research opportunity. This is another recipe from the current issue of Bon Appetit. Can we stop for a minute and talk about Bon Appetit? After months of watching it spiral into food magazine hell, it seems to be returning to form. Or at least returning to the realm of food magazines. It has held onto its handsome new design but threw out much of the star-fucking that was making it totally inane and unbearable (Armie Hammer eats at McDonalds! Kelly Westler doesn’t like food! Fashion!). The last couple of issues feel like the magazine has gotten back on track and is headed in a better direction. It is nice to see. Although, even this month Patrick Dempsey was interviewed- but at least he seems to like food! Celebrities are just like us, they eat food. In any case, I hope that it continues to improve and focus on food and the people who love it, because, whatever its faults, Bon Appetit is pretty good at choosing and developing recipes. Recipes! Back to the noodles…. This is among my favorite preparations of this dish. These are some seriously delicious and well-balanced cold noodles and I plan on eating them all summer. The highlight is the chili oil you make and add to the dish. It is spicy, seriously spicy. I want that. I want my lips to burn. I already knew I preferred tahini to peanut butter in these types of recipes, but this confirmed it. Peanut butter can be so heavy and flat tasting, I think the tahini works better with the other ingredients. I didn’t change much about this, I increased the amount of scallions and added more of the chili oil than called for, but you can adjust the spice to your liking. Also, this isn’t reflected below, but next time I would increase all of the dressing ingredients by 25% so that this uses the entire box of spaghetti. I hate when recipes only use a portion of the box. Otherwise, this is some salty summer noodle goodness. Sesame Noodles with Chili Oil and Scallions (recipe from Bon Appetit) 4 scallions, whites and greens separated, thinly sliced 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons sesame seeds 2 teaspoons Sichuan pepper, coarsely chopped 12 ounces thin ramen noodles or spaghettini Kosher salt 1/4 cup tahini 1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar 3 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon sugar Cook scallion whites, vegetable oil, red pepper flakes, sesame seeds, and pepper in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until oil is sizzling and scallions are golden brown, 12–15 minutes; let chili oil cool in saucepan. Meanwhile, cook noodles in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente; drain. Rinse under cold water and drain well. Whisk tahini, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and 2–3 tablespoons chili oil (depending on desired heat) in a large bowl; season with salt. Add noodles and toss to coat. Top with scallion greens and drizzle with more chili oil. Permalink to Sesame Noodles with Chili Oil and Scallions | No comments yet

Although it's been on the market for a while, Drink Spirits finally reviews Rum Chata, ... and loves it. (Still thirsty? See Liqurious)

Organized roughly from least to most intense—from mild Hefeweizen all the way to robustly sweet and bitter Imperial Stout—this chart gives a general sense of beer style so you can train yourself to be a better taster. Dave McLean also ...

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.**********************************************************1) After months of swirling rumors, none confirmed, Chef Paul O?'Connell wants Boston area diners to know that his French-Latin bistro, Chez Henri, has NOT been sold, nor is it closing its doors anytime in the immediate future. O?Connell admits, however, that he has ?been entertaining some possibilities for change, but there is no firm plan or time frame.? In the meantime, O?Connell is a full time presence in the Shepard Street kitchen. In fact, O'Connell is re-launching The Latin Dinner Series, a summer dining concept that?s been on hiatus for a few years, but was a crowd favorite when it has been offered in the past. Starting on Memorial Day Weekend 2013, and running until the end of June, this sensuous, $39 prix fixe menu is based on recipes from a variety of South and Latin American cuisines. In July, O?Connell will introduce a brand-new prix fixe menu concept, comprised of dishes made by a long and illustrious roster of alumni, that is, chefs who have spent time in the Chez Henri kitchen over the past 18 years (and in most cases have gone on to careers of great acclaim). First up is the celebrated husband-wife team of Amanda Lydon and Gabriel Frasca of Nantucket?s Straight Wharf restaurant, who will contribute recipes from their days working at Chez Henri in the late 80s. Pricing and details will be available soon online at http://www.chezhenri.com 2013 Latin Dinner Series Appetizers, Choice of-Venezuelan Chipi Chipi Clam Soup with Ipswich Clams-Clam Fritters with Bacon Aioli-Grilled Clams Casino ?Havana? with rum-lime butter & green garlic-Chopped Kale Salad with cojita cheese, beachcomber croutons, buttermilk-chipotle dressing-Chorizo and Shrimp Empanadas- Smoked Cod and Lobster Chowder (cooked by Chef O?Connell at The Super Bowl ? recipe below)Entrees, Choice of-Lobstah Bake in a Bowl: Maine Lobster, Mussels, New Potatoes and Corn with chile-lime butter and a bacon-corn biscuit? add (1) Berkshire Farms Hot Dog, $2-Ash-Roasted Hake and New Potatoes with Criollo Stew of spring vegetables, beer-battered onion rings and herb aioliDesserts, Choice of-Strawberry-Rhubarb Shortcake with Dulce de Leche-Hot Fudge Sundae with Mexican Chocolate Brownie and crème de canela2) Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House and The Greg Hill Foundation will host Seaport Strong – a benefit to support those tragically affected by Boston Marathon bombings. The event, which will feature special guest bartenders such as New England Patriots players Danny Aiken and Zoltan Mesko, will donate 100% of the proceeds to the affected families and victims. On Tuesday, June 4, at 6:30pm, for $50, guests will enjoy Del Frisco’s signature passed hors d’ oeuvres, VIP cocktails, and a silent auction, all while mixing and mingling with their favorite Boston athletes. To purchase tickets, please visit The Greg Hill Foundation. For more information, call Del Frisco’s at 617-345-3941. The Greg Hill Foundation is a 501c3 organization that was founded by Greg Hill, host of WAAF’s Hillman Morning Show. This unique foundation responds to immediate requests for assistance, to improve the lives of local families touched by tragedy, through matching the charitable donation of Greg's media audience.3) The staff of Forum will be taking over sister restaurant, Noche, in order for the chef to test new menu times that will be on the Forum menu when it reopens and it will also allow the Forum staff to see loyal guests and friends while Forum is under renovations. Newly appointed Forum Executive, Chef Matthew Barros, will be hosting test dinners at Noche every Friday where the Forum menu will be introduced to guests as part of a weekly-ticketed event called “FORUM FOR ONE”. Proceeds from this multi-course dinner will benefit Boston’s ONE F

A hands-on wine blending workshop at Lavau winery in Provence, France (Still thirsty? See Liqurious)

Designer Kate Jenkins goes for a mix of realism and humor in her crocheted works of art. Here, the poppy seed bagel looks quite delectable until you notice the lips on that lox. 2012 © Kate Jenkins Throughout history, food has been sketched in pencil, painted in watercolors and oils and cast in stone. In the 1960s, Wayne Thiebaud replicated cakes and pastries in great pastel detail. Centuries before that, the Italian painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo painted fruits and vegetables in the shape of human faces. Designer Kate Jenkins immortalizes food in a different medium: lambswool. Jenkins crochets meals that look almost realistic enough to eat, from birthday cakes and chocolates to roasted chicken and topping-heavy pizzas. “The possibilities are kind of endless with food, because it appeals to everybody,” says the Brighton-based designer. “We all have to eat.” Jenkins began crocheting food in 2003 to boost publicity for her new accessories label, Cardigan. “Everybody loves food,” says Jenkins, who studied fashion and textile at Brighton University. Before that, she spent a decade as a knitting consultant, selling her designs to fashion labels such as Marc Jacobs, Missoni, Donna Karan and others. Stuffed Boars Head with assorted vegetables, 2013 © Kate Jenkins Her first piece was a woven take on the full English breakfast. Jenkins fashioned the eggs, sausage, bacon and beans out of wool, which she says is “a comforting kind of textile to use.” The medium aligned perfectly with her first collection, “Comfort Food,” which chronicled the usual suspects of British cuisine: fish and chips, bangers and mash and fried eggs and beans on toast. A few years later, Jenkins borrowed inspiration from across the pond. “Kate’s Diner,” a collection of classic New York foods, featured burgers and fries, hot dogs, pretzels and donuts. Her crocheted chow mein in a takeout box appears on Smithsonian magazine’s June cover. Mexican Burrito © Kate Jenkins One crocheted dish can take between one to three weeks to complete, depending on the level of detail involved. She usually lays out the ingredients, or photos of them, out in front of her as a reference. While traditional artists can sketch out an idea on paper and erase what they don’t like, Jenkins must weave part, if not all, of an ingredient before seeing if it will work. “Often I’m making something for the first time, and there’s a lot of trial and error involved and stopping and starting,” she says. “It’s not as quick as a pencil sketch—it’s a lot longer because I’m making a 3D piece.” Tinned sardines, 2012 © Kate Jenkins Jenkins’ favorite foods to crochet are crustaceans, which are usually adorned with shiny sequins. She’s woven enough of them in her career to fill an entire collection featuring canapes, caviar, “sewshi” and different types of fish. Crocheting bread is another story. “A slice of bread is quite boring to look at,” says Jenkins, who will spice plain-looking loaves and slices with a more textured look or deeper color in the crust. While Jenkins says she’s a healthy eater who cooks for herself, she’s not an avid home chef. “I’d prefer to crochet the food than spend hours making it. Being a cook is an art form in itself, and I think it takes a lot of practice to become really good at cooking. My time is best spent sticking to something I’m good at.”