New York Restaurants

Certain cooks slavishly copy ­conventional wisdom during the course of their careers, while others go out of their way, perhaps too slavishly, to try to redefine it. Then there are those chefs, like Andrew Carmellini, who manage to negotiate the endlessly changing fashions of their day in an effortless, perfectly timed way. Carmellini was Daniel Boulud’s chief lieutenant during the last days of haute cuisine, and when that blew up, he opened the excellent upmarket Italian restaurant A Voce. When New Yorkers began clamoring for simpler, more comforting food during the recession, he turned out meatball sliders and rustic bowls of pasta at his popular Tribeca establishment Locanda Verde. Shortly after that, as the great locavore tsunami hit town, he and his partners Josh Pickard and Luke Ostrom opened the Dutch in Soho, where it’s possible to dine on platters of chicken-fried quail without having to make the slog out to Williamsburg or Bushwick. So it’s no surprise that Carmellini’s latest venture—a big, spangled, category-killing brasserie called Lafayette—is almost perfectly timed to catch the wave of French-food nostalgia that has been building, these last several months, all over city. Like other trendy, recently opened brasseries (Le Philosophe, Calliope, Montmartre), this one offers plates of fresh oysters, newfangled versions of duck au poivre, and twirls of skinny golden frites in soft paper cones. Unlike the others, there’s also a Balthazar-like boulangerie up front, where you can purchase fresh-baked croissants and pointy baguettes and ogle trays of overpriced pastries displayed under glass. The tall, airy room on Lafayette Street features Continental-style picture windows and spacious coffee-colored banquets, and it’s easily the prettiest, most workable space that Carmellini and his team have occupied since they began hatching restaurant ideas over a decade ago. In my experience, the food at ­Carmellini’s­ restaurants gets better with age, but at Lafayette my tasters and I found several decent things to eat right off the bat. The former Craft chef Damon Wise has been recruited to run the kitchen, and he and his cooks produce slabs of grainy, wine-­colored country pâté studded with pistachios ($16), and a cool, properly smooth foie gras terrine garnished with sweetened rhubarb. The small-plate toast dishes popularized by Jean-Georges at ABC Kitchen are called tartines here, and you can get them piled with spoonfuls of opulent duck-liver mousse ($8) or Selles-sur-Cher goat cheese, decked with tomatoes and slivers of fresh radish. My classic beef tartare ($18) was a much better deal than the mealy Hawaiian prawns ($19 with sauce verte), but if you’re in the mood for serious feed, begin your dinner with the lardon-rich salad frisée, which is served on a plate the size of a small hubcap. “I think they’ve captured that real French-brasserie feeling,” said an actual Parisian at my table, as she ate the generously portioned, Côte d’Azur-quality seafood salad ($19) and soft slices of boudin noir, which the kitchen plates, tastefully, with a scattering of green garden peas. She was very complimentary about the pastas, too, which include flower-shaped “Fleur de Soleil” noodles ($18), made in-house and dressed with specks of pancetta and more garden peas; tangles of Provençal-style squid-ink fettuccine bombed with shellfish and bits of smoky chorizo; and chewy shell-shaped coquilles macaroni smothered in veal ragout. Various exotic pasta specials also tend to pop up on the menu throughout the week (if they have the lobster ravioli, order it), although the dish we all liked best in the Les Pâtes section was the perfectly al dente risotto, folded with mushrooms, fresh asparagus, and a creamy Parmesan sauce. The entrées are the most prosaic part of the menu at Lafayette, although if you’ve fattened up on the pastas, y

Eastwood's Israeli Scotch egg. It’s unlikely that modern Israeli cooking will ever bump New Nordic or Asian Hipster from their positions atop the list of Zeitgeist-y New York cuisines. But recently, a new wave of Israeli food has made inroads, beginning, as these things often do, with oversubscribed pop-ups: The Kubbeh Project occupied Zucker Bakery for three weeks in March, celebrating Iraqi-Jewish dumpling soups, and then Michael Solomonov, the foie-gras-kebab-grilling chef of Philadelphia’s Zahav, had to add a second seating (at 1 a.m.!) for his Momofuku Ssäm Bar binge. In further hipster-foodie news, two Israeli-expat stands landed at the Brooklyn Flea (Plantí’s artful hummus plates, NYShuk’s hand-rolled couscous). This year has also seen the arrival of Tel Aviv baker Uri Scheft, whose eclectic output at Union Square’s Breads Bakery (18 E. 16th St., nr. Union Sq. W.; 212-633-2253) ranges from everything-seeded challah to chocolate-coated alfajores, the Argentine cookie that’s like the cupcake of Israel, and the debut of basil-tinged “crazy baba” at Zizi Limona (129 Havemeyer St., nr. S. 1st St., Williamsburg; 347-763-1463), a free-spirited Brooklyn restaurant where chef Nir Mesika stocks his larder with not only date honey and za’atar but curry power and fish sauce. This sort of no-boundaries fusion is to be expected from a melting-pot nation like Israel, whose citizens hail from every corner of the globe—not unlike New York, which provides fertile ground for even more crossover cooking. And so we have the tomatillo-sauced “green shakshuka” at Jack’s Wife Freda (224 Lafayette St., nr. Spring St.; 212-510-8550); Taboonette’s (30 E. 13th St., nr. University Pl.; 212-510-7881) pita pockets subversively stuffed with pulled pork; and corn empanadas at Balaboosta (214 Mulberry St., nr. Spring St.; 212-966-7366), whose chef-owner Einat Admony promises her next modern Israeli restaurant, Bar Bolonat (611 Hudson St., at 12th St.; no phone yet), will be even more irreverent. There may be no better symbol of the new wave, though, than the Israeli Scotch egg at the Lower East Side bar Eastwood (200 Clinton St., at E. Broadway; 917-284-4514), where partner Sivan Harlap conceived of the snack as a clever hybrid of her Israeli heritage and her husband’s Scottish one. Coated in falafel, not sausage, and served with tahini, it’s immigrant food at its culture-bridging best. *This article originally appeared in the May 27, 2013 issue of New York Magazine. Read more posts by Robin Raisfeld and Rob PatroniteFiled Under: trendlet, balaboosta, bar bolonat, breads bakery, brooklyn flea, eastwood, jacks wife freda, taboonette, zizi limona

For a follow-up to their Italian-farmhouse-style Rucola, partners Henry Rich and Julian Brizzi plan to open a Ligurian-inspired restaurant early next month on the premises of the 3rd Ward workspace and education center in East Williamsburg. This will mean that members no longer have to leave the compound for sustenance between classes on bike mechanics and cheese-making, and also that locals can drop by for pour-over Stumptown coffee and breakfast pastries, chilled fava-and-mint soup, and ramps with smoked-almond pesto (pictured). Fitzcarraldo takes its design cues from the Werner Herzog film (scene: a crumbling opera house in an overgrown jungle outpost), and although an exact opening date has yet to be determined, the venue will make its official debut on June 1 at the center’s anniversary barbecue. For this open-to-the-public event, chef Vinny Campos will be roasting lamb in a caja china, grilling Brooklyn Cured sausages, and spiking shaved ice with Fernet and Coke. 195 Morgan Ave., nr. Stagg St., East Williamsburg; 718-233-2566 *This article originally appeared in the May 27, 2013 issue of New York Magazine. Read more posts by Robin Raisfeld and Rob PatroniteFiled Under: openings, fitzcarraldo, henry rich, julian brizzi, slideshow

This Week's Top Stories: Eater Inside: Costata · The Great GoogaMooga 2013 · Critic Robert Sietsema Axed From the Village Voice · The Gatekeepers: Balthazar's Arnaud Jean-Baptiste · Eater Inside: River Styx · Untouchables: Anita Lo's Foie Gras Soup Dumplings at Annisa · Updating the Cocktail Heatmap · People Go Nuts for Dominique Ansel's Cronuts · New York's 11 Top Free Agent Chefs, 2013 · Eater Inside: The Fourth · Restaurants That Are Still Closed Because of Sandy · Chef Shuffles: Jason Hall Leaves John DeLucie's Crown Group

The first stalks of rhubarb, in finely freckled shades of salmon pink and celery green and sticking out like glow sticks at a Phish concert, have made their way onto the folding tables at Greenmarket’s Samascott Orchards stand. No need to tell you that they’re delicious tempered with sugar and baked into a pie or crumble. But for some, the essence of the fruit (no, wait—make that vegetable) lies in its unadulterated, razor-sharp tartness. This supremely sour greens-and-rhubarb recipe from Daniel Boulud’s cookbook Braise, recently reissued in paperback, is a perfect example. Daniel Boulud’s Mixed Greens With Rhubarb, Leeks, and Dill 1 pound rhubarb 2 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 pounds leeks, white and green parts, washed and diced (about 4 cups) 2 pounds mixed greens (collard greens, kale, Swiss chard, mustard greens, beet leaves), trimmed 5 tbs. dried dill weed 1 tbs. coarse sea salt or kosher salt, plus additional to taste 1 tsp. Aleppo pepper (at Kalustyan’s) Freshly ground black pepper to taste Preheat oven to 275. (1) Trim the rhubarb, and (2) slice the stalks into 1/2-inch-thick pieces. Reserve. In a medium cast-iron pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the leeks and cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the greens, cover, and cook just until they are slightly wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. (3) Add the rhubarb, dill, salt, Aleppo pepper, and black pepper, and continue to cook until the rhubarb is slightly softened, 12 to 15 minutes. Pour in 1 cup of water, and bring to a simmer. Cover, and transfer to the oven. Braise until greens have broken down and the liquid has reduced, about 1 1/2 hours. Adjust seasoning if necessary, and serve with yogurt. Serves 4 to 6. Adapted from Braise, by Daniel Boulud and Melissa Clark (Ecco; $19.99). *This article originally appeared in the May 27, 2013 issue of New York Magazine. Read more posts by Robin Raisfeld and Rob PatroniteFiled Under: in season, braise, daniel boulud, recipes, rhubarb

Long-boiled pork-bone broth so rich it could fell an ox. Excited staffers shouting something at you in a foreign language when you walk in. Loud, frantic noodle slurping. Ah, yes, it must be another authentic tonkotsu-style ramen shop. This one, however, the first New York branch of a Tokyo-based mini-chain, is already a bit of a sensation in Los Angeles, where there are three locations. It arrives in the West Village early next month with a letter of recommendation in the form of a rave review from Pulitzer Prize-winning L.A. food writer Jonathan Gold. Among food geeks, that is something like the equivalent of three Michelin stars, but even better. There are 56 seats, plus nine more at the counter. So go ahead and start brainstorming an Ippudo-style line-waiting strategy. 24 Greenwich Ave., nr. 10th St.; 646-329-6856 *This article originally appeared in the May 27, 2013 issue of New York Magazine. Read more posts by Robin Raisfeld and Rob PatroniteFiled Under: openings, jinya ramen bar, ramen

If Miles Davis is the improbable muse behind Eleven Madison Park, could Charlie Parker be the creative inspiration—in name, at least—for Charlie Bird, a new, Italian-accented restaurant slated to open this week in the South Village? The venture is a collaboration between chef Ryan Hardy, late of Aspen’s Montagna at the Little Nell, and Robert Bohr, a sommelier and wine-cellar consultant best known for his bull-market reign at Cru. Here, they celebrate their urban terroir in a space discreetly tagged with street art and decorated with Lyle Owerko’s boom-box photos. Hardy’s menu applies Italian technique to local ingredients in crudi like Long Island fluke with pickled walnuts and cult Tuscan olive oil; small plates of lamb tongue and fried zucchini blossoms; and seasonal housemade pasta, like cappellacci with ramps, peas, and guanciale (pictured). And the 100-bottle wine list reflects the collective tastes of Bohr, Momofuku wine director Jordan Salcito (his wife and Charlie Bird investor), and acting sommelier Grant Reynolds. 5 King St., entrance on Sixth Ave.; 212-235-7133 Dinner Menu [PDF] *This article originally appeared in the May 27, 2013 issue of New York Magazine. Read more posts by Robin Raisfeld and Rob PatroniteFiled Under: openings, charlie bird, robert bohr, ryan hardy

Anyone who was hoping to indulge on a few foie gras doughnuts this weekend at the now cancelled Googamooga, chin up. Justin Warner's Do or Dine has a special offer for you: flash your Sunday ticket to The Great Googamooga and you'll get your very own foie gras doughnut, half-off. [Twitter]

[Photo: Instagram/Northern Spy Food Co.] The people at Superfly Presents pulled the plug on day three of The Great GoogaMooga food and music festival at around noon today because of bad weather. In a statement, Superfly explains that the group and the Parks Department made the decision "in the interest of safety and prevention of damage to the park grounds." Many of the chefs and restaurateurs that were participating in the fest voiced their thoughts about this on Twitter, and some of the city's big writers and critics also commented on the news this afternoon. Find a roundup of the top 15 tweets below, as well as information from Superfly co-founder Jonathan Mayers about how the company plans to work with the vendors to make up for day three. This afternoon, Eater asked Superfly co-founder Jonathan Mayer if the company is going to offer any reimbursement to the restaurants that prepared food and set up shop today. His response: Well, right now, we're closing down operations, but we'll be working with the restaurants, sitting down with them, and working through the issues. We have a good track record of being fair with vendors, and artists. Our whole intention behind doing this festival was to celebrate these restaurants and local business...We want to support and be a good partner with these restaurants. We want to do the right thing. We're still finalizing things and assessing operations.So, no word yet on whether the vendors will actually get any financial help to cover the food and labor costs from today. But if you are one of the unlucky vendors who set up shop today only to find out that the event was cancelled, expect a call from someone at Superfly soon. Christophe Hille of Northern Spy Food Company tells EV Grieve that his restaurant lost around $10,000 this weekend. UPDATE: Superfly also passes on this statement: "GoogaMooga is all about supporting local businesses and our intention is to do right by each vendor. In the coming days, we will be sitting down with all our partners to find financial solutions." Here's how the news of the cancellation played out on Twitter: Mile End, right before the gates were supposed to open: Superfly announcing the cancellation and the refund policy: One festival goer points out that Superfly sent out an announcement about ticket availability this morning: From Allison Robicelli: Chef Andrew Carmellini: One of the members of De La Soul sends a message to fans: Northern Spy Food Co.: Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton: Mr. Sutton offers more thoughts on GoogaMooga on his blog, The Bad Deal: "Maybe we don't really need GoogaMooga's particular brand of an NYC food festival because maybe it's just bringing together NYC restaurants we can already visit any day of the week, except here, they're outside...Maybe restaurants will realize this could all be harmful to their brands and harmful long established customer relationships?" The people from Pig and Khao respond to Sutton's question: From the Pork Slope crew: Blogger/Author Emily Gould: The people behind Pizza Moto send word that City Harvest might pick up some of the extra food. Heritage Radio Network: The people from Luke's Lobster are trying to make the most out of the situation: Team Seersucker: · All Coverage of The Great GoogaMooga [~ENY~]

Here's a very thin silver lining for anyone who was rained out from day three of The Great GoogaMooga: all unused drink tickets will be refunded. If you want your money back, all you have to do is send an envelope with any unused beer and wine pavilion tickets and a copy of the receipt for your Sunday ticket to Superfly's GoogaMooga offices, to the attention of Ticket Reimbursements, by June 17. That address and the return policy can be found here. [Brokelyn] [Photo]