Welcome to One Year In, a feature in which Eater sits down for a chat with the chefs and owners of restaurants celebrating their one-year anniversary.
Last fall, chef Daniel Mondok moved to wine country to open Paulée, a restau...
Welcome to One Year In, a feature in which Eater sits down for a chat with the chefs and owners of restaurants celebrating their one-year anniversary.
Last fall, chef Daniel Mondok moved to wine country to open Paulée, a restaurant that brought the farm-to-fork concept directly to Dundee, with an adjacent garden and eye for sourcing protein locally. The spot collected positive reviews, but by December 2012, Mondok officially left the project, leaving the restaurant in hands of co-founder/chef de cuisine Sean Temple, who now oversees both the kitchen and Paulée's growing role in the valley farming community. "It's definitely a community of restaurants, through gardening," Temple says. "We gave [Newberg restaurant] the Jory 20 tomato plants last week; they turned around and gave us 40 padron pepper plants. So we're like, trading plants."
To mark the restaurant's one-year anniversary, Eater recently chatted with Temple about Mondok's departure, the garden's early days, and how Willamette Valley restaurants weather the winter, when "you don't see cars on 99."
How did you first get involved with the project?
I got approached to take over Farm to Fork, because they were having some trouble keeping chefs. So they basically asked me to come in and keep the place running a few months, until the end of the year, when they would close it down and get Paulee up and going. And then when I met Daniel, we just started talking, he asked me to stay on and be his chef de cuisine. [...] It was just really organic.
Since the very beginning, the word "ambitious" was thrown around a lot, of your having your own garden...
It's so crazy how blown out of proportion all of that was. We were opening a restaurant; we started hearing all these things of people saying how much we were growing, it never really made sense to me how it got that blown of of proportion.
It was a restaurant, we were going to try doing a garden, we were going to do try to be local. A lot of people do that, it wasn't something ground-breaking. We were trying to do the best we could, really. [...] When it came to the garden, when we first did it, [Daniel] was in charge of that — that turns out to be one of the things I absolutely love about the place now. The garden's crazy. It's so big — we've got 700 tomato plants in the ground, we've got so much food. We've approached the restaurants all around us; people are going to be buying from us. It'd be cool to see our name on the back of someone's menu as a purveyor. But it's really cool like that.
Thinking back to a year ago, what were those early conversations with farmers like? What was the local response?
I sourced out every person we deal with; that was my job off the bat, was to find everything I could. The tough part was, we found out that no one delivered to you — all the people used in Portland, farmers that you see on everyone's menu, they don't go down [to Dundee]. So it was really trying to start over. People up [in Portland] that we've used have always said, "We can drop off to you at your house, we can meet up somewhere en route." We pretty much set aside three weeks to a month, where I set up appointments saying, "Let's go down to these farms, check out everybody we can." And as we went, we explained to people what we were doing. Everybody seemed stoked. Everyone was really for it.
And it's even funny now, because one of the farms, Simington Gardens down in Aurora — we're starting to get 12 pounds of salad greens a week out of our garden. So, I didn't call him for like, five days. He called me up and was like, "Are you mad at me?" And I was like, "No. This is the idea, what we've been telling everyone for over a year. This is what we're striving to get to. I don't want to have to call you." But, even than, last night I called him at midnight, like, "I need 12 pounds of salad greens tomorrow, please." But it was pretty well received amongst everybody, and we're j