As the launching pad for surf exploration throughout Indonesia, Bali is buzzing with rumors and stories of where to go. Everyone just got back from 'the most epic surf break' they have ever visited and somewhere that was 'pumping the who...
As the launching pad for surf exploration throughout Indonesia, Bali is buzzing with rumors and stories of where to go. Everyone just got back from 'the most epic surf break' they have ever visited and somewhere that was 'pumping the whole time' they were there. After spending a fair amount of time traveling this country over the years, I've learned to take such stories with a grain of salt; too many surfers are unreliable sources of information, particularly when a few beers are involved. My Friend Clint is not one of those storytellers, so I was immediately interested when he described his trip to this spot in Java last June (Photo above taken of me by Hiroshi Fukuzawa).Clint had just returned to Bali. He and some of New Zealand's best surfers had scored at this spot they dubbed the 'Coast of Faces' (you can read about their trip in NZ Surf Magazine). I had been tracking a swell for a week and talking to Clint about taking a trip to Nusa Tenggara As we followed the charts, it looked like strong winds coming off Australia would push the swell westward. He thought conditions looked for this spot so we cancelled our plans, purchased plane tickets that afternoon, and flew out early the following morning.Java is the most populated island on the planet, home to over 60% of Indonesia's 240 million residents. It is the most important island culturally (the amazing ruins of Borobudur and Prahmbanan, pictured above left), politically (the massive capital city of Jakarta), and agriculturally (a myriad of crops are grown here, including peanuts pictured above right). Once you get outside the major cities, the population density is surprisingly low. Travel in the Javanese countryside is not easy and even short trips take hours due to small, poorly maintained roads carved through thick forests and rolling fields that infrequently pass through clusters of small homes. This is one of the many reasons Java's coastline has remained relatively unexplored.Clint and I arrived at our destination in the late afternoon. I was immediately impressed with the setup when we walked through the small kampung (village) down to the beach. Massive rocks formed a small crescent bay where waves peaked and crashed off both headlands. Beautifully clear water washed over colorful coral reef as a few surfers lazed underneath a cluster of palm trees eating nasi goreng (fried rice) and watching empty waves roll through.We had just enough time to squeeze in an evening surf. We pulled out our boards gingerly walked across the razor-sharp coral reef, and made our way to the lineup through the channel. Clint put has previous experience here to work and paddled straight into a bomb; it sucked off the reef and spit him out into the channel 100 meters away. I knew then it was going to be a good week.Part II coming tomorrow with more photographs so check back!
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