Woodworking

Does anyone have any plans or know where I can find planes for a dovetail angle guide?

This 41”X 22”X 17-1/2” coffee table is made from Ash, Cherry and Butternut. The top, legs, and stretchers are finished with a hand rubbed oil varnish mix then several coats of hand rubbed wax. The drawers and shelf are finished with shellac.My inspiration for this table came from the wood itself. Starting with the top which was originally two pieces of church pew seats made of Ash. The front and back of the seats where cut off and the rest joined together. The front and back of the seats where then cut down to size and used for the legs. There are no further alterations done to either the top or legs other than sanding and finishing. The panels are also Ash cut from the pew backs and again only sanding and finishing done. Cherry and Butternut where used for the stretchers, drawer fronts, shelf and drawer bottoms to complement the top and legs.The table not only features an interesting top and legs but hand cut dovetails on the drawers, sliding dovetails and mortis and tennon joints attaching the stretchers to the legs.

Here’s a rocking horse my father and I just completed. It was a fun project from which we got to use many different techniques which we hadn’t used before and learn a lot. The majority of the shaping was done using an angle grinder and sanding disk but some of the finer details were done using a dremel and gouges. The horse itself is just multi-ply plywood from Home Depot and the base is oak. The plans are from the Rocking Horse Shop and the particular style is the “medium size Rocky.” The hardware and accessories were purchased from the rocking horse shop as well.

Hello fellow lumberjocks, I just wanted to give you guys an update on my hometown and the devastation that went through last night. As some of you may or may not know, a deadly F5 tornado blew through Moore Oklahoma last night about 3:30 PM. It has completely wiped out about 50% of the town. Many people are left without homes and most of the town is left without power and water. This has been a very trying time for a lot of the residents of the city of Moore. The Red Cross is taking donations from anybody who would like to donate. If you are interested you can text “Redcross” 90999 to make a $10 donation. You can verify this on www.redcross.org . I would like to thank you all in advance for any help that you can give my hometown. Just so you know, my home and workshop was untouched by about six blocks south of my location. However, there are many families in need of assistance. Please give all that you can, thank you

hi all,i thought id post some pictures of my new gate that i made to replace our old one that was falling apart.its made from 3×1 and 2×2 pine, finished with a dark oak oil paint.took me about 3 days.hope you like it cheers chris…....

My first successful box execution. Made the box to fit a pitch pipe as the client’s father is in a barber shop quartet. Used a version of the EZ miter method for the joints. Sides are maple with a maple liner and the top and bottom are peruvian walnut. I used blue and yellow felt for the liner and the finish is general finish polyacrylic. Carved the client’s fathers initials on the top and the carved the phrase on the inside to be seen as its opened, as client requested. Will be delivering the box this afternoon, hope she likes it. Thoughts, comments, critiques are always welcome. Dimensions 3.5×3.5×1.5 ish

A friend of mine gave me these two side coffee tables when he was clearing out his mother’s house after she died a few year’s back, a true lady-Mrs Leahy and I always remembered these little tables while I was a kid in the 60’s & 70’s, so I wanted to make them usable again and to fit in with our home and most of all in remembrance to his Mum.....so first I measured out width for my old collection of tiles – whole and broken and even managed to use some of my beach combing tiles – and then set depth for router and then started to rout…what a messy job and dust all over my workshop, second table was taken outside -lesson learned- and just one other point to make here…. flying bits of wood to the face…. ‘jasus’...as we say here, if I had a helmet I would of worn it, or one of those ice hockey masks…but that would just be to weird looking,......moving swiftly along,c’mon stay with the program here, then proceeded to fill table tops with tile cement and filled with said tiles and bit and pieces,forgot to mention at the start….I did lay out all the tiles etc. and made sure they would all fit together in the spaces,and the filled spaces between with grout and wiped clean with a damp cloth, Tah da… Be happy everyone,enjoy life for it can be short sometimes…. Jim.

I guess you can call me obsessed at this point. History -I had a Bosch aluminum router table. It was curved on the outside edges slightly down so that when you fed a piece of wood in you had to hold it in the center and on the outfeed, you had to make sure that you didn’t press down on the end, otherwise you would get a curve on your work. So I set out to buy a new, flat router table. I initially ordered a Kreg Precision Router table and it was suggested that it was a waste of money and that I should build my own. So I returned that order and bought a Rockler HPL top, plate and fence combo. Well that thing had a huge dip in the middle of the table, a solid 3/32” dip, which was probably worse than what I had previously. Plus the router plate was not flat and bowed as well. I sent the whole setup back and ordered a Bench Dog cast iron setup. Quite expensive, but I assumed that spending that kind of money would buy me a nice piece of equipment. Boy was I wrong. The Bench Dog cast iron was anything but flat and it has a .012” dip in the middle of the table. Probably not the most significant thing, but I thought cast iron was supposed to be flat. The icing on the cake was that the actual “Pro Plate”, was not even flat at all either. It’s bowed and the plastic insert that screws into the center won’t sit flush with the lip. I am thoroughly disappointed at this point. What is ironic is that the aluminum router plate on my Bosch router table is perfectly flat, but the insert rings sit beneath it, so I know it is possible to manufacture a flat router plate. I thought about my options: If I build my own table and buy a fence and router plate, that is about $100 for the plate, $100 for the fence, plus materials to build the table, so that puts me at about $250-$300 already, and that doesn’t include the cost of the cabinet. So i’m thinking I may go back to the Kreg Precision router table. Is this thing somewhat flat? Does the router plate and ring sit flush with the table? These are really my only requirements. Rant over…...

I got sick of tripping over my 30+ clamps. Since none of my tools were set up yet, I need to make a clamp rack using a circular saw and cordless drill. This is far from elegant, but does the trick. Also this space is right near the second garage door entrance, so it was a good use of useless space I also decided on a location for the drill press, lathe, spindle sander and sharpening system The lathe and DP are plugged into the wall outlet. I’m going to run a short 12awg extension cord from the ceiling outlet to a heavy duty power strip for the sander and the grinder I also built a 3’ x 6’ outfeed/assembly table out of 2×4’s plywood, and tempered hardboard. I played around with some super ghetto joinery here as I wanted to get it done quick. Rather than cut half laps in the 2×4’s I just doubled them up and sandwiched them in. This is probably the sturdiest shop table I have ever built. Now to deal with the rest of this disaster on the other side of the garage

Hey everybody, just wanted to inform you all of my experience this afternoon with a sawstop rep in case you are looking into investing in a new table saw or have to call for some help with the one you have. I have an older model contractor saw and I just ordered the dado brake through amazon.com. Well I was setting it up to cut, and kept getting a series of lights indicating that the brake was either to far away or to close the blade. I was not able to get it zoned in just right. So after reading the manual, and trying everything I could, i figured it was time for a phone call. I called the 800 number and immediately a delightful representative directed my call to tech support. 2 rings in, a Mr. Garcia picked up the phone. I explained my situation and he was very understanding of my complaint. I gave him the serial code to my brake cartridge. After doing so he gave me a detailed explanation as to what happened. Apparently there is a programming issue with the cartridge as it is an earlier model (probably not one of amazons most moved items… Maybe it was on the shelf for a bit when they sent it to me). He graciously is sending me a new one, and a return slip for the old one. He also, based on the serial number of my saw, said that if it were just a bit older they would automatically upgrade the switch/brain for the saw as well which suprised me. If this were not enough, he even emailed me his personal plan/idea in PDF form for an addition to ease cleaning and vacuming of the height adjustment screw that can sometimes get gummed up. Mr. Garcia was very professional and courteous. You can tell by the way he communicated that he cares about the craft and loves the product that he supports. If you are on the fence about a new saw, please consider customer service for WHEN not IF your saw has an issue. SawStop is worth more than a look just on that fact alone… Thanks for reading!!