Woodworking

Picture frame made out of red oak with walnut inlays…the wind chimes in the picture I made for my mom are from woodworkingformeremortals.com website

Hi jocks! I’ve been told that for any woodworker a good cutting board serves as a right of passage of sorts, so I’ll let you guys tell me how I did! I was going to make a giant butcher block, but the wife said it would be too big for the counter, so instead of a giant one, I made a big one and a small one. The big one is 30 inches by 20 inches and the small one is 20 inches by 10 inches. I used 3 coats of mineral oil and 1 coat of beeswax for the finish. As always, comments, questions, and constructive criticism are welcome! Thanks for looking!

Every once in a while I will run across an article where I see the phrase “Scrap Wood”, I’m terribly sorry but in my shop or garage, I definitely “DO NOT” have any Scrap wood. If it isn’t used for Making my wood burnings, it is used for my Christmas ornaments. So is ANY of you have any scrap wood, get ahoad of me and I will let you know where to send it. Thank You Jim Earl

I made a small side table recently, and was using this to taper the legs: Well, let me tell you—that jig is just plain NOT safe to use when tapering narrow stock. My fingers were WAY too close to the blade for my comfort, so I set out to make a better jig. I basically used the idea from this site, with a few modifications to use stock I had available. Base and fence are made from 18mm Baltic birch plywood. The runner for the miter slot is UHMW, and the toggle clamps came from Lee Valley. Here’s a shot of the underside. I cut a shallow (3/32”) groove to help align the UHMW runner. Overall dimensions for the base are 12.5” x 30”. I will feel much safer cutting tapers with this jig!

After my Father-in-law came down for Christmas with 7 stitches in his finger. The blade got him. My wife gave the blessing for me to get a Sawstop for my birthday. I am setting up the saw, dust collection, 220V contactors, etc and I have removed the laminate wood extension board to install my cast iron router wing at its location.I’ll call Sawstop tomorrow, but I though of something. Will the increase mass of the router wing interfere with the flesh sensing technology.To my knowledge it should not. The electronics do a test of the mass when the system is turned on. That establishes a constant. The blade brake fires when that constant changes. Does anyone have an additional cast iron wing on their Sawstop. Dave

Finally finished my Moxon vise. This was a lot of fun. Had some scrap walnut I used for the main body, some oak that I cut the hand wheels from. Then I had some threaded cherry that I had made a clamp with that I wasn’t too happy with so I repurposed them. Wiped it down with a little BLO and poly mixed together followed by a coat of Johnson’s Paste wax. All in all it works good and holds strong. Now I just need to start cutting some dovetails. Thanks for looking.

Clamps off (and put away :^) DC fittings arrived today… Next step is to fabricate the integral dual blast gates and close in the bottom.

this urn is constructed of locally grown black ash, with the top engraved with a cnc router. no picture of the engraving to preserve privacy of familly members.

Final piece of 'architecture for the garden is now underway, a tiered trellis. Unlike tower of power, this piece does not feature battered (compound-sloped) posts. It has its points of interest however, and like the other bits I've made over the past few weeks as we establish our new garden, it is made using joinery.One little cut-out glitch today required a patch - here, I'm starting to clean it off:After planing was done in the curly Jatoba zone of patchiness, it seemed altogether more presentable:The plane, while not totally sharp, did its work:Curly Jatoba was not part of the plan (not that there is much of a plan with these pieces), however I ran out of Teak and Spanish Cedar scraps of adequate length for this portion of the frame, and Jatoba is a lot cheaper than Ipé, and - most helpfully - available to me locally. I was surprised after jointing and planing to see that a couple of pieces were curly, something I had not seen in Jatoba before. It would have been nice to save it for another project, but that would have required another trip to the hardwood dealer and more money, so I decided to go ahead with it. Fancier than it needs to be? Yes.A few shots of the various joints in progress on this trellis to, possibly, just maybe, whet your appetite, pique your interest, even titillate:Haunched tenons:Through tenons, which are a bit long at the moment and will be trimmed back:Teak always look so cool when freshly cut, but alas after a few weeks it all looks the same color. You know, that teak color.What's going on here?:The trellis is coming together decently so far, and I'm not fussing the details, just knocking the bits together about as fast as I can do the cut out. This trellis is for cucumbers and maybe some squash, so in a few months it will look much like a big green leafy cube in the garden.By the way, did the pun in the post title work for you? Thanks for dropping by, and hope to see you again on your travels in and around the interweb.

Anybody out there using a Grizzly G1022 table saw? My old Grizzly saw (model TSC-10) has a problem dealing with a dado stack that is discussed here. I finally got around to calling Grizzly and talking to tech about the problem. From him I learned that the TSC-10, while no longer supported, is basically the same saw as the G1022 and that a G1022 arbor would fit my saw. What I’d like to hear from a 1022 owner is if they have any dado/arbor issues similar to the ones I have with the TSC-10 (i.e. uneven or stepped). Thanks.